This is a problem with many extractors (even pricier ones) that have larger spacings between the basket wires if the frame is extracted tangentially which I’d say all 2 frame extractors are. I agree the cake racks are a nice cost effective fix, the other option is to spin slower if your arm can take it! You may also find the comb pushes through the cage which can get messy when removing frames to rotate them.
There appears to be a recent increase in preference towards radial extractors which don’t have the same issue (that and they are cheaper to produce than swinging basket tangential).
-edit-
I will take this opportunity to make a tenuous link back to Warre here, who actually used cages around his combs before putting them into the extractor to support the comb (as he used a top bar frame design with no wire etc. for support)
If you are extracting with a tangential spinner you have to spin at least three times especially if your comb is really full. First side gently for a minute, turn and you can spin full throttle after a gentle start, then turn again. That way you do not have a whole half frame’s worth of honey trying to get out through the midrib. If you do it this way you don’t need much support and you won’t blow frames
It’s funny you wrote this, I had similar written (might be in my edit) but couldn’t describe elegantly without a diagram the honey ‘behind’ the comb attempting to push out/through. Definitely agree on the 3 spins (2 flips), slow, quick, quick.
yes RBK- it seemed like if we spun them much slower- the honey didn’t want to come out. When we got them to a nice speed and the honey was spinning out- they stared to bow and crack. This spinner has absolutely nothing at the face side to hold the frame in. I expect- if I did much more of this- down the track I will look to a better solution. I have seen some videos of very old two frame spinners that have no crank- just a weight/flywheel at the top- these seem like a good robust simple design.
The good thing about this cheap one is that it does work- and it will hold together and could be re-sold if I decide to upgrade. I just did my mod with the cake racks- I had one rack at home that was the exact right size- I went to an op-shop and there was a perfect 100% identical matching rack- they fit in like they were made to go there. I’ll be spinning frames again in a few weeks.
I’d go for one that has a clear lid and the extraction gearing etc. outside the main extraction chamber (the gearing and bearings all look exposed to the extraction chamber in the linked design) .
You will get grease/swarf coming off the gearing in cheaper extractors and you want to see what’s going in the extractor without any honey flicking out.
I like that idea of the gears outside away from the honey. My ancient 2 frame spinner doesn’t have any covers. I’m happy not to use them, even if I bought a new one. I’d be interested in how strong those nylon gears are & if they are replaceable.
Someone at our bee society demonstrated a cheap spinner like that that they had bought: the gears failed on the first use! They had then converted it to an electric spinner with a cordless drill.
The one that I bought has metal cogs- it is very basic- but seems robust enough. One thing I did notice on the very first use was some oil leaking out of the bearings. I used hot water and left the spinner in the sun to drive out the rest of the oil- don’t want it tainting my honey. Now the bearings are dry so I wonder how long they will last.
Hmm, I always say that you get what you pay for. A honey spinner is an investment - one that should last you for a good while. I think its best to cough up some extra dollars and buy a worthwhile one. Have a look at some of the best honey extractors for some options.