It sort of does matter, in that the metal bar that you screw to the bottom of the box fits into a shallow recess carved out of the wood, so that it is flush and the box sits flat on the one below it. If you reverse the sides, the recess will be at the wrong end of the box. No big deal - just chisel or sand out one at the drain end of the box, where it should be.
It is okay, that metal bar fitted in without adjustment - our hive has the observation window to the right of the extraction frames, as illustrated on the Flow frame instruction manual, and this is not the side illustrated on the sheet âAssembling your flow boxâ which came with it!
Hello everyone, Iâm in Essex, I have just set up the built the Flow Hive a month ago. Begginer at beekeeping. Putting myself on a course to find out how to look after the bees. Course starts on 16th April for 5 Saturdays.
I am buying my Nun from a local beekeeping member, he will basically get the bees settle in the flow hive brood box and I will collect the bees in June and set it up at home. He has local bees which are not aggressive, which makes it easy for beginner.
I am learning everything I can before I go head and dive into beekeeping. At the same time excited with the idea.
Has anyone used their flow hive and harvested the honey from it. I would like to know your experience on the flow hive.
The standard British hive is the national. Itâs what most people in the uk use. More and more are using Lang and poly. It doesnât matter what box you use just learn to look after your bees properly. Learn from your experienced beekeepers in your association. Remember the flow frames are a method of extraction only so you put the super on when a traditional one would go on. In Essex you have mild weather so the flow frames should work well enough. When you have six frames absolutely solid with brood then put the flow frames on. Any earlier and you risk your colony
No as you donât want the queen laying up there - keeping the brood box with sufficient stores for winter and to start up the spring laying is sufficient - I went into winter with about 6 frames of stores they have some left and are collecting Spring stores now but the brood is building slowly
I use foundation and let the bees buil their own so a bit of both. As for leaving a super on all the time you can if it is a traditional box. The bees simply move up there where itâs warmest in the winter. To that end you mustnât leave a queen excluder in place. The bees wonât leave the queen and any brood and they will starve. This time of year the queen is laying flat out and the brood nest is expanding rapidly. They need every bit of nectar, overwintered stores and pollen they can get. Itâs the pollen that is the protein source for new bees. I havenât looked into most of mine yet as its been too cold. The one colony that I have had a thirty second look at to add a frame of stores already has three frames absolutely packed with worker brood.
My Lang is untested so far. I run 14x12 Nationals which are just the right size for brood space and winter stores.Looking at the space you might struggle with running two deeps in the UK, one might be too small. Ask around your fellow beekeepers.
There is an excellent forum that is full of wise and very helpful members but it is not for the faint hearted. The help Iâve got there has pulled me out of one or two potential disasters over the years. Itâs UK based so you should have a look, but be polite or they will eat you âŚonly joking.