I have upgraded all my flow roofs with flashing and a little insulation in the form of an extra internal layer of coreflute. They are now largely waterproof. I am currently working on a theory of no ventilation in the top of the hives- and have the inner cover hole covered- BUT- I am wondering it it might be a good idea to make a ventilation hole into the roof space to keep just the roof ventilated and stop it from getting damp. I notice that other hive manufacturers with roofs similar to the flow roof often have ventilation holes in them. Also I see that most houses have the roof space ventilated.
has anyone made such holes- thought about it- or have an opinion?
Hi Jack - I think the ventilation thing is really complicated (in houses too) and an area of much debate amongst beekeepers. As to your experimentation/theory as to top ventilation - I am considering that too, and having spoken to a commercial guy here, it seems there may be a move in Tasmania away from top ventilation (as in the standard migratory lid here) with the commercial keepers too. Not sure what they do when moving hives - some suggestion of drilling holes in the floor…but I will get some more information after I ask questions, hopefully within the next 2 weeks - and I will report back. My flow roof has some ventilation in the Flow logo at each end - it goes right through - does yours?
The flow logo goes right through? Not on my hives- it’s just lightly burnt onto the surface.
Pderhaps some of those Tassie beeks are now using screened bottoms- and modifying their migratory lids with insulation? I keep linking this article that has the theory:
I’ve just drilled one each 1 1/2" hole (screen inside) fore n aft … As I assembled I sealed all overlap, ends n cap with silicone caulking. ! Not a water leak yet. And I live in a rain belt in Puget Sound ! It mine don’t leak here they aren’t going to leak anywhere…
I’m working on hive condensation … My version of a moisture quilt seem to work but need a couple more seasons to prove I wasn’t justucky.
Hi Jack, I think that you & @Dan2 are on the right track. I would cover the hole during your winter, then open it again during spring, however I would leave the roof closed.
I think that vented migratory lids for beekeepers who move hives regularly are fine. The bees normally propolize them if they want to. If they don’t, it doesn’t matter. The good thing about them is: it’s easy to remove the propolis with a nail before moving a hive, if there is any distance or time involved.
Jeff or anyone else, if you had a solid lid with no ventilation holes, would you consider affixing a wire mesh of some sort over the entrance if you were moving the hive? Thanks.
I found that the after sheeting the roof with aluminium and sarking the inside for insulation I had moisture dripping everywhere and similar Gerald I drilled a 25mm hole in one end and provided some exhaust from a channel along the roof apex. That stopped the condensation in the roof space.
The hive is affectively sealed from my roof space and I do get some condensation down the side walls but this drips out through the bottom and causes no harm, as distinct form condensation which drips down through the hive and wets the bees.
Here is my current “Winter Setup n configuration” … This example I used one of my double deep Nuc hives but I do the same with all 5, 8, or 10 frame hives. Three of my larger hives have the peaked gabled roof with vent holes. I do to block or cover the crown board as the “moisture quilt” with the wood chips really help absorb condensate n keep heat inside. I do use a top n bottom entrance during the winter only. I keep my crown board hole screened at all times to help keep invasions of wax moth out. The 1 1/2" riser ring gives me a area to place “Winter Paaties” without bothering the colony very much during our long wet n cool winters in Puget Sound n my Easern foothill location.
. I’m not sure this would work for all but seems to be adequate for the moment for my “Winteriver” needs.
@busso Hi Wilfred…I have thought that metal inside the lid is problematic (although often recommended on the Forum) because of metal sweating (complicated issue) and it is interesting to note your problems with water. I have used adhesive silicone only to seal my Flow roof and it is brilliant. Coupled with my seemingly unique Flow logo ventilation holes - no moisture problem.
@berrmich Hi Mike, well it seems I am the only one to have holes right through the logo. I am starting to think my flow roof is a rare and valuable item being so unique. Must be worth thousands! Perhaps the laser cutter was turned up too high? It is cut through as clean as a whistle by the way. They work a treat I must say. I’ve always marvelled at them and how they were cut just small enough to stop bees getting in and out and yet large enough for ventilation.
@Dee Hi Dee, I think from reading what Jack and Wilfred have said that there is moisture in the roof space although as you point out, where does it come from?. As you know there is moisture in the air to some extent everywhere and sealing up the top feeder hole from the hive won’t mean there is no moisture in the air to condense on the metal or wood inside the roof. Further, moisture from the hive will travel thorough the inner cover even if it is sealed, as the timber is constantly taking in and releasing moisture, and water vapour will of course move through the wood of the inner cover from within the hive and end up in the roof space too. It is my belief that it is for these reasons that Wilfred and Jack have/have had moisture issues.
. I’m not sure this would work for all but seems to be adequate for the moment for my “Winteriver” needs.
