Yes, Texas has no requirement. If your wanting land tax exemption, with the number it help with the documentation but not required.
I live the look with the name and or number on it. Just did not have a number, you helped me figure out a way to customize it, which is even better 
Hi Semaphore,
A few years ago I built a 17â sailing boat out of Hoop Pine and I bought it in planks 6mtrs long x 200mm wide x 24mm thick. Hoop Pine is a very good timber to work, straight grain and free from warps.
I bought it from Trend Timbers at 15 Railway Road, North Mulgrave 2756, which is close to Windsor NSW. Their phone number is 02 4557 6846.
If 200 isnât wide enough for you, you can always cut it in half lengthways then glue it to make a plank 300mm wide.
Hope this helps.
Beefriendly.
I ended up buying 140 meters of 290mm wide clear premium pine planks! Buy in bulk and save, right? This simple beehive plan grew out of control. Couldnt find wide planks of hoop pine for love nor money. WRC ended up costing 8 x what pine did so that was outâŚ
Ideally I will wax dip the hive parts- otherwise it looks like paint.
Hi Michelle,
I wasnât sure if you had sourced the wood or not hence my response to your question but good luck with your project.
John.
Nothing wrong with paint 
Cheers
Rob.
well- I just bought 15 kilos of wax and 5 of gum rosin⌠I just really like the idea. I am sure paint is fine too.
I am going to make my own wax dipper- and dip the parts before assembly so I donât need such a large vat. Also my hive is twice as long as a standard 10 frame box so I would need a huge tub if I was to dip them assembled. Off to the scrap yards this afternoon hunting a stainless steel trough. I am going to use electric elements instead of gas- seems like it would be the safer option.
@Michael_Bush reading your website Michael I see you dip at 110-122 C using bees wax and gum rosin. Reading the article I linked at the top of this thread- they recommend dipping at a hotter temps: around 150C but they are using paraffin and microcyrstaline wax. Do you know what the flash point for beeswax and rosin is? Is there a reason you use a lower temp? Also watching the youtube video I linked at the top- he talks about how microcrystaline wax improves the adherence. Is it just an alternative to using rosin? Or might it be a good idea to add some to my blend?
The flashpoint of beeswax is 400F (204.4C)
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesterms.htm#beeswax
So flashpoint isnât the issue. The reason I ended up at the temperatures that I did is, you actually cook the wood in the wax. At lower temperatures it takes too long to do an adequate job. At higher temperatures it foams up and boils over making a mess and is a fire hazard.
Yes, the microcrystalline is used to accomplish the same thing as the rosin, in theory. Iâve been considering going to 1:1 instead of 2:1 as the rosin provides a lot of the hardness to the finish and I think it might last longer. With beeswax, if you donât use the rosin it gets greasy and slippery in the sun. The rosin changes the consistency completely.
Definitely would agree with foaming up and fire hazard. I helped my mentor out waxing a whole bunch of boxes for others one day and it foamed up, spilled over the edge and caught everything on fire. We went through for fire extinguishers and then spent the next hour cleaning up the mess before we could get restarted. And going out and buying more fire extinguishers.
Whoa- fire? No good- scary - when you consider how much wax is thereâŚ
I am going to shallow âfryâ my parts in a modified deep fryer. The heating elements and thermostat will be in the wax- no open flames and good thermostat temp control. I am hoping they wonât foam much as the parts are kiln dried wood- also less wood in each batch. I will have a good amount of head room in case of foaming. I am hoping I can get away with just 10-14kg of rosin/wax by shallow frying.
@Michael_Bush is microcrystalline wax essentially similar to gum rosin? when you dip do you see the wax sucking back into the timber as it cools like in the video at the top? That guy says itâs the microcrystalline that causes that. I might add a little to my blend- though perhaps i should stay all natural and go 3/2 wax/rosin?
I paid the same price for the rosin $15 AUD p/kg- is that what youâd expect in the us? The rosin was listed as âgum rosinâ with no additional information- are all rosins the same?
Hopefull if mine doesnât foam too much I will cook around 150c.
Not really, but the end result is similar. The reason for the gum rosin is the same as the reason for the microcrystalline wax.
Yes.
Mine starts boiling over at about 260 F (127 C) But mine is beeswax and rosin. Perhaps it foams more than paraffin. I donât know.
I guess it must- as everyone I have read is doing it a fair bit hotter than you with parrafin- I suppose raw beeswax has more impurities? Or could the rosin play a part? Maybe if you increased your rosin ratio it would foam lower- or higher? I am happy to be using the beeswax rosin blend - all natural- bees have to deal with enough pollution without having toxins on the hive. I will experiment with the temps.
Hello, are you selling the wax dipped boxes? I live in NJ, will you ship to me?