Bees only drawing comb in super

Hi Chris, I was working on the assumption that you only had frames in the brood box. It’s good that you had frames in the top box.

As you say, that is a small swarm. It would be greatly helped if you had a mentor who could sell you a frame of brood in all stages to help boost the numbers. One frame at the start, followed by another in about 10-14 days time.

A good mentor should be only too willing to help out like that.

Also, seeing as you are in spring. A mentor might be needing someone to take some brood off his/her hands as swarm management.

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I’m trying my best to find someone who might be willing to sell me some but it seems that here in Portugal people really don’t want to help much, especially to a learner which I find a bit odd,we all have to learn after all

Look on the internet for ‘bee equipment supplier’ or ‘apiary supplies’ to locate your nearest business that sells bee keeping gear, he will know of your nearest ‘amateur bee keeping group’ and they will help you and guide you.
“I’m trying my best to find someone who might be willing to sell me some” you said but you have not said what you were trying to buy? But again your local bee keeping group will sell what you want or tell you where it is available.
JeffH and I are in Australia so we can only give you advise for you to follow.
Regards

I’ve contacted a fairly local beekeeping shop and asked everything you said,I also have asked the questions on social media to see if anyone there can help, I’ll keep my fingers crossed and keep you posted!!

That is good news, while JeffH and I can tell you what you should be doing it will be much easier if someone can show you how to do things to help your bees. Jeff has many years of experience and I suspect has no idea how many hives he really has. I was into bee keeping on a semi commercial scale about 30 years ago but now it is just a hobby and an interest for me. I got fed-up having to pollinate my tomatoes myself as there were no bees in my area at all and very few insects to do the pollination.
Regards

Hi Chris,
I thought to have things covered by reading, but even though a fast reader, occasionally I wished a mentor. I have now two.
This forum can’t replace a local advisor.

Go on Facebook and see what comes up. Even the US beekeeping forum has members from your area.

For the future- in this situation you want to start with a small 4 or5 frame box called a ‘nucleus’ or ‘nuc’ hive. They are great for catching and building up smaller swarms. When they have built out the 5 frames you can transfer them straight into your brood box. The Nuc box will come in handy for storing and moving frames too.

Here are some of mine:

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I hope you’re not expecting the honey bees to do the impossible Pete?
:smiley:

I see no reason that bees can’t pollinate tomatoes. When I was in the Hawkesbury they did there. Up here I hadn’t seen a bee for about 7 years, and then it was only a few, though my garden has many bee friendly flowers as well as in my veggie garden.
Cheers

My understanding is that honey bees can and do pollinate tomatoes, they are just not the best at it. I have read that bumblebees and some native bee species are something like 500 times more efficient, because they “buzz pollinate” and honey bees don’t. :blush: Having said that, many commercially available tomato species are self-pollinating, it is just that pollinators may increase the yield significantly.

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Native and bumble bees yes, honey bees no.
Tomatoes have no nectar and the pollen is unaccessable. Tomatoes require buzz pollination.

I have to agree with you Dawn, from personal experience with my tomatoes, Bees would not forage on the flowers if there was no reward and back then my bushes were loaded with the fruit. Over the last 7 years I have not seen a bee or any other insect in my veggie garden and had bushes flower and no fruit so I resorted to pollinating my self.
I guess @skeggley has bees that are too fussy to pollinate tomatoes. LOL I am assuming he is talking of his own experience, and that is ok but my experience is different.
Regards

Hello there Peter,

I can recommend planting perennial basil as a way to attract more inspects to your garden. They are very easy to grow and flower constantly (the flowers are infertile and produce no seed). Very easy to take cuttings from and you can eat the basil too. I have been spreading them everywhere in my garden and they are constantly covered in bees and other insects. They must produce a reasonable amount of nectar as the bees never seem to tire of them.

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I will see if I can run down some cuttings at the community garden, thanks for the tip Jack.
Regards

if you find some to make cuttings just cut off stems around 10 to 20 cm long- remove all the lower leaves and any flowers- place in a glass of water in a warm sunny spot- and they generally grow roots within 10 days or less if it’s warm. I get almost 100% success doing this.

There seems to be a lot of sub varieties- I think the one I am growing is very similar to greek basil. I’ve gone a bit overboard with them and potted up 50 a month back:

twice a year you can prune them back brutally- my large ones are nearing time for the first pruning back- they become quite ‘leggy’. They grow very well in pots- or the ground- and like a fair bit of sun. They are very forgiving.

I just bought Tulsi seeds- it’s an Indian variety and supposedly one of the greatest cure all plant out there- Holy Basil:

not sure if it will flower as constantly as it isn’t infertile like the ones I already have but it should be fun to try out. Also if I eat the laves and continue to eat honey every day I will probably live for hundreds and hundreds of years… :sunglasses:

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Yes, my tulsi flowers just as profusely as all the other basil. Can take cuttings of that too. Never ending supply.
Noticed Greek basil doesn’t flower as soon.

We have a large perennial basil plant near our hive and took a cutting. Placed it in a glass of water and it grew shoots in about a week. We then planted it and it is going strong.

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