Both. 
I have had africanized queens here in the US, and they will lay top to bottom plus wall to wall brood. Scary stuff - like Aliens meets Predator. At the same time, my non-africanized hives had brood about 1.5 frames in from the wall and usually no less than about 3cm from the bottom of the frame, before I used a slatted rack.
It seems that at least in some environments- you can definitely have a highly productive hive from a single brood- of the brood is well maintained and optomised. In South Australa many beeks run double broods- and many times I have found I get more honey, or the same- running a single brood. To me for where I am it is so much simpler to inspect a single brood that even if I didnāt get comparable or better results I would do it anyway. I would rather have two single brood hives than one doubleā¦
There is a beekeeper on this forum from Canada who has shown pics of hives with 5 full flow supers on top of a single brood box. He is achieving this astounding result through expert management of the brood to maximise the amount of space the queen has to lay.
I try to do the same in spring in my hives- removing anywhere from 2 to 4 frames over early spring, especially excess honey, and giving the bees fresh frames or foundation to keep them busy and create space for the queen. The idea is to try and get a brood box with very little honey in in and huge expanses of brood in all stages. Encourage the bees to fill the supers, by regularly harvesting if appropriate.
Having said all of that: I may play around with the idea of a brood and a half just to see how it compares. I fully understand the issues involved with non-standard frames- but I already use ideals to create honeycomb and have accepted the issues of using non-standard equipment. If I used an ideal for brood I would allow it in spring to see if I could get a really big build up and also discourage swarming- and then move the QX to let the brood hatch out later in the season and potentially remove it when it is honey- to harvest or possibly to replace it before winter as stores. Already we use ideals for early spring virgin honeycomb- later removing them so the bees focus on the flow box.
Preemptive control removing honey frames from the fd bb and replacing with wax foundation and/or removal of brood frames for splits utilizing removed honey frames or for bolstering weaker colonys.
Thank you @Peter48 @Dawn_SD @Semaphore @skeggley
I see the theme is to provide all the space that the queen needs to lay whether it is single, double or brood and a half through comb management if needed and dependent on climate/area. Hence why there is no one right way of doing things 
Now you have got it Eric, and you have worded it well too. When I moves to Queensland and get back into beekeeping there was a lot that I had to change in hive thinking purely because of the climate change between locations.
There is no one āgolden ruleā that fit all and sometimes we need to adapt and change ideas on the run like this past 12 months that was climate wise so different to the normal. The drought had trees flowering that werenāt producing nectar because of the lack of rain and so no moisture in the soil, so my hives survived on what they had stored and I hadnāt extracted. 12 months earlier my hives were booming and I was extracting constantly.
But that is mother nature
Cheers
Hi folks, I noticed it was dicey around here to get two deeps filled without previously drawn comb, so Iāve been adding a medium to a deep as my basic setup so far (medium = approx WSP)
Only hangup is that you canāt put deep frames up in the medium - but you can put mediums in the deep! One beek I know looked at me cross eyed when I mentioned that, asking howās that gonna work? As if bees donāt know how to build outside of a frame 
anyway, I found that they will build mostly drone comb on the bottom of course, which I pry right off and toss in the chicken coop when I can cycle the frame back into the medium.
This year Iām trying the single deep brood with my Flow super on it. Itās going well, but swarm control is tricky. I managed to capture one swarm that developed and will merge it backā¦meanwhile the Flow frames are maybe 60-70% capped and dearth is here.
Hey Eva, A year or two back I was offered a ao full hive, roof, super, qx brood box and base board, the story was that he didnāt have the spare time to care for the hive nd when he did get time he could never get into the brood box without big hassles.
the real problem was the boxes were home made and not to measurements that were right. The brood box was 74mm (3 inches) too deep, I have to admit it too time and hassles to figure it all out. I always had trouble breaking out the brood frame from the base board with a bit of a mess of honey, comb and brood. A bit like you will have with mediums in a full depth brood box mate so you might have the same issues. I ended up using a circular saw to shorten the brood box to the āstandardā depth for a Langstroth.
Cheers
Sort of, perhaps more so giving the bees more to do hence the foundation and not drawn frames.