I made a boo boo. I did a single Oxcolid Vapor treatment with the flow hives on, do I have a problem? There is some honey in it, nothing capped… Also What do I do with the flow hives during our winters? We get a few feet of snow during the winter with Temps ranging typically between 0 Degree F and 32 Degrees F. Any help / advice would be helpful…
Thanks! Rob
Robert …
The Boo Boo damage is done n over already… Not a scolding but this is a good reason to READ all procedures n warnings ! Always read the current packaging of chemicals n treatments as often these can change from batch to batch or season to season.
Here are some labels for Oxalic Acid n Mute Away Strips n others:
.Direction n safety first when using any treatment. Even the sugar roll test should be done carefully… For best result …
Now about the Flow-Frame. I’d harvest but not use any of this nectar for human consumption. I’m not sure as I’m no expert but possible the nectar can be re-feed back to your bees for their winter supply only. I’d also get the Flow-Super off and in storage for winter. There are several threads on this forum already so I will not attempt reposting.
If your following oxide vapor procedures you still have 2 more treatment to complete using this mite treatment process.
I hope this encourages n help you with your Boo Boo ! Good luck n enjoy your bees.
Get your colonies ready n winterized,
Gerald
But, but… http://growingalabama.com/news/2016/01/21st-Annual-Beekeeping-Symposium-February-6-in-Clanton/
Gerald - I felt like becasue there were so many bees still in the super (i don’t see any visable honey) I would vap them all. I read that the acid is in so much that we eat, and consume that even if there was little honey it would be deluted. Are you telling me I should winterize my hives already? Still mid 80’s-90 here on Long Island. Are you a Flow hive user? How long have you been keeping bee’s? Thank you for your help. One of my favorite parts of beekeeping is the people that do it. People love to share their knowledge, both ways. People helping each other to better the enviornment and caring for the bee’s… I appreciate feedback… 
I didn’t get the benefit of those instuctions when I bought my vaporizer. The Acid came in a ziplock baggy…
Are you sure that it is Oxalic??? 
Honestly I can’t be sure… I have to trust that the person I got this from. They have sold hundreds, with perfect feedback and reviews of this that go on forever… I used it and my bees are fine. I am learning as I go as best as I can, but you certinaly made me think…
I was joking. With the baggie in your photo, I was having visions of a scene from “Breaking Bad”… 
Oxalic acid vaping does not kill brood
Unfortunately I missed the symposium. Another event I volunteered for coincided. "Beekeeper Awareness’. I am sure any new info from the symposium will be brought up next meeting. PS I only read that it was to be discussed?
Bobby, are you an Alabama beekeeper? I attend the Etowah association in Attalla.
Negative @sweetnature, I live next door in Georgia. Coincidentally just a mile or so from the Etowah river. 
I’m trying to figure out why a speaker would discuss the topic if it were illegal.
Honestly, the Apivar strips are the easiest treatment. They kill 3 generations of mites with 99.99% efficacy. No harmful gases or chemicals to gas the bees. Very clean and easy to install. No mess. No fuss. Easiest and most effective treatment available. Cheap too.
99.6% Efficacy
Source: Nasr et al, Efficacy of Apivar on the Varroa Mite, Varroa destructor in Alberta, Canada. 2012 Canadian Pest Surveillance
Survivors due to resistance as a deviation from the norm could end up procreating and passing the trait on.
We don’t want ARVD (Amitraz-Resistant Varroa Destructor) so rotate treatment methods.
MRSA right @Cardiologist?
Yes they work a treat and not temperature dependant.
They will go the way of Apistan and Bayvarol though and resistance is just round the corner.
With regards to resistance to Apivar (Amitraz): Can someone with knowledge explain why the mites would become resistant but the product still works on dogs and cats for flea and tick collar? The dog is exposed to it for 10-15 years with great results and a bee it for 6 weeks. Could it be because it builds up in the combs and then we have mites exposed to very low doses? Couldn’t it build up in the dogs fur and then we have fleas and ticks exposed to very low doses?
The key is the difference between a dog’s fur & bees’ combs - fur & skin cells fall out & regrow, but wax combs are nearly permanent. So mites have the chance to adapt over time to the residues of chemicals that stick & build up so easily in wax vs fur…I guess mites could also be quicker to adapt 
Thanks Eva,
That makes sense; stuff that is porous like wax, wood, and plastic absorb chemicals over time. Makes me glad that I change out my honey combs each year or two 
If you have half an hour spare read Randy Oliver’s perambulations through the subject. It’s a good read.
http://scientificbeekeeping.com/amitraz-red-flags-or-red-herrings/
I saw a chart online with the seasons. It suggested Oxalic for Winter, Amitraz for Spring, Formic for early Summer, Hopguard for late summer, and Thymol for Fall. Can I please have comments on this? This is my bees’ first summer and don’t even know if my nuc was treated previous. I live at 8,000 ft and don’t think there’s hardly a hive around - pretty prestine atmosphere. Flowers still around, tho our first frost can happen any day, then Indian Summer. And no eternal snow over winter - lots of sunny days with some of them balmy. I have 2 supers for over winter.
Does your information suggest treating a colony five times a year? I find that difficult to understand.
I treat once in the autumn when supers come off. That’s it.
Before you do anything check your mite levels with a sugar roll.
