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Perth (WA, AU) Flowhives and honey flow


Thank you for the pic and explanation :slight_smile:


I have a video which shows the same thing very briefly here:


Another extraction today from the BW colony. I have two hybrid supers on it and harvested the top one today, 9kgs. The lower super has had two extractions since December, I had to buy more buckets! So far +40kgs since the end of spring from the Flow frames in 2 of the colonys. I’m beginning to think 2 hives is enough for us, next season, when the other 3 colonys mature, I’ll probably be harvesting each week! Which is good… I think…
I’ve got it fairly down packed now with extraction taking an hour from cracking (I open 1/3 every 10 mins.) to closing with another 1/2 hr drain time in the closed position. On a warm day like today, 36°c, the honey flowed really quickly, so much so that I thought the water content may be too high. Once the honey had cooled it came in at 18% w/c. If I was doing multiple hives I’d only need to add an extra 10 mins for each one.
I really like this Marri honey, sweet and smooth with a light honey taste. With such a high glucose content I need to buy some fine creamed honey to seed it as naturally the crystals are huge which I don’t mind but less saleable.
I’m in the honey!


@skeggley… great to read about your success :smiley: …excellent!


l use a plastic bucket with tight lid lid to harvest my honey, the flow tube is put into the side of bucket. The tube is secured near the bucket with elastic bands pushed around the tube. This stops ants bugs from getting into honey, also i can go away and come back later leaving plenty of time for frame to drain. It works really well.
Quinnquote=“skeggley, post:680, topic:8608”]


Question to locals.
Background: Riverton river flats and hives active most of the winter.
Question: So new flow Hive From split 1 1/2 months ago. Filled 10 frames already. Queen is rocking but for wintering…
Do I…

  1. Put on flow super
  2. Put on full super from hive it was split from but is now struggling due to me stupidly moving the queen. (old hive has 2 full supers)
  3. Full super and flow
  4. Feed over winter with sugar water stuff.
  5. Something else?

Thank you guys for continued help.
I’m beginning to understand Bee keeping has so many joys.



My suggestion would be to NOT put on your super and expect a harvest, but you don’t clarify what you meant by “filled 10 frames already”. Is that 10 frames of brood? brood+honey? brood+honey+pollen?

(if you inspect the frames in your brood box, do you notice the outer frames collecting more honey when compared to a few weeks ago? If so, it would suggest your bees are starting to prepare for cooler weather themselves, so your colony size will start to decrease soon)

What you might want to consider is putting your flow super on and seeing if the bees will start to prepare it by filling the gaps etc and then remove it in May (or remove it earlier if they aren’t doing much with it). By doing this your bees might take to the frames quicker next year. Of course, I’m assuming you’ve got additional fresh, new flow frames…

The best way to decide is to look at what is around your area in flower and what is likely to come into flower.
If you’ve got enough in flower or coming into flower you could then put the super on and leave it on. Our winters aren’t that bad. If you do this make sure you keep up regular inspections, especially for pests (i.e. wax moth, roaches etc) as the extra space will be a challenge for the bees to maintain.

From what you’ve said there is no going to be no need for you to feed over winter. Given you’ve indicated that one of your hives has two full supers you could consider keeping a full super atop each brood box and go through winter with a brood+super combination on each hive.

I have an 8-frame and in my first winter I didn’t have to feed. I just went through winter with the brood box only. In my second winter I kept a hybrid on top of the brood chamber. At the start of the winter it had 3 frames of honey, 1 fame w/ foundation, and 3 empty flow frames. By the end of winter I had 4 full frames and 3 full flow frames.

As it stands on my last inspection (1wk ago) my bees numbers have started to decline, even though they are still raising Drones. My outer frames are now honey+drones, whereas a few weeks ago they still had some brood.


Thanks for your advice.

No I don’t expect to harvest I’d just like them to work on the frames ready for spring plus I thought if they are going so well they might store some honey as insulation and food.

In regards to what the brood looks like… Well two weeks ago it was 6 full brood, 2 of a mix of pollen and honey and some brood and two starting to store not necessarily capping honey. This was a late split. So I’m concerned about stores for winter hence the initial question.

So I might put on the spare 10 frames of capped honey from second hive for them for winter. I think I’ll also restrict the entrances on both hives To help with heat and defence.

I hope to make it to the meeting in Como this week. Maybe I’ll learn even more there.



Restricting the entrance would be good. I forgot to mention that. I’ve reduced my entry by half over summer. Last winter I reduced it to a 2 bee width. That’s probably a bit small but, as expected, I did notice a reduction in how much of the honey they consumed. This winter I intend to keep it the same as summer, reduced by half.


New question about the core flute bottom board and hive moth.

So I’ve had possibly 1-2 hive moth larvae per week on the core flute for several months (highest position) but can’t find evidence in the hive.
Q. Is the hive just hygienic and dropping them out the bottom then can’t get to them?
Q. Hive is on a concrete slab and debris could be building up under the core flute on the slab. Do I change that for a open system?
Q. Will the cooler weather sort this out?

Thanks guys in advance.

PS. I had big hopes of making it to the meeting last week but once again family stuff got in the way… There’s hope for next month.


Hey Bec, sounds OK to me, I would say as long as your hive is relatively strong and it appears to be the case, then the moths are restricted to the bottom of the hive and larva are most likely to be feeding on the rubbish down there. Just pull the slider out once a week and squash any larva or moth cocoons that you find.

That’s up to you, what ever is easier for you to maintain, you could just raise your hive up a few centimetres, or place it on bricks. In your climate, maybe only use the slider over winter to help keep the hive warm.

Not really. Moths come and go all season.


Hiya Bec, I too found wm grubs on the coreflute living in the debris each time I opened it. I have now replaced the Flow screened bb with a solid bb. As we don’t have beetles here the original board is only good for the slope for harvest. I will be retrofitting the original bb with a solid bottom.
Is that a Flow super on the hive?


Not a flow super. Long story short. Too late to put on the flow super. Had extra standard frames with honey. Just for this winter. Thanks for your advice.


@Rodderick. Thanks. That is what I was hoping.


Marri has finally finished here and the FF’s havnt been fully refilled since last drain.
There’s still some gums around in bud but I don’t think there’ll be another harvest this year for me.
I’ve just packed down the 2 nonproductive shaded colonys and although the WSP on the hive is full of honey the Flow frames were not touched. Me thinks I need to get these hives into a sunny spot.
Drones galore in the area at the moment.


@skeggley, out of curiosity, how many litres did you harvest this year and how did it compare to last year?

Marri honey is among the best the is in my opinion… I’m jealous :wink:


Hiya Snowy, 18 Ff harvests from 2 hives, 6 at the end of spring and the rest during the marri flow. Around 40kgs. A few more kgs for mead when I pack those colonies down when the numbers drop.
Yep marri is my favourite so far also, still, being in suburbia means it’s probably not mono floral.
Problem is that marri crystallises quickly so it needs to be jarred up before it cools too much.


Hi all, it’s a pretty wet and cool day in Perth today and the 1st real taste of the season changing.
I’ve borrowed this photo from another post, as it is exactly what I saw in last weekends inspection. My brood box was very neat, tidy and healthy except I noticed a hole just like this in the brood frame.
Has anyone an explanation?
Thanks, Phil


Probably old wax moth damage, not yet fully repaired. :blush:


Or sometimes the bees like to have extra openings to travel around. We find that naturally drawn comb often has extra peek holes.