NO
But it depends
If you find one or two next to each other the bees are likely replacing their queen for some reason so leave them to it
If you find swarm cells then if you destroy them they WILL make more and often on older larvae which means they are quite likely to swarm before look look inside again in a week.
If the bees are preparing to swarm you have to split them.
If you find lots of swarm cells that are capped then they have probably gone already
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Read this
http://www.wbka.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/There-Are-Queen-Cells-In-My-Hive-WBKA-WAG.pdf
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Hi Dawn ,
took some pics today of top brood box , bees just starting to make comb in bottom box as top is almost all full 
Mark
Hi Rbk ,
just posted up some more pics after adding bottom brood box top nearly all full and capped
bees have started to fill bottom brood box ,bees are from Melbourne (bens bees nuc hive ) unsure of where queen is from but i will ask 
I have also been feeding bees sugar syrup every couple of days ā¦as ive asked Dawn should i put flow super on top after bottom brood box is full ?
kind regards
Mark
Nice brood pattern @mark39. You may be a little late in the season to put the Flow super on, but there would be no harm in trying once your brood boxes are at least 80% full of brood or food stores and every frame is well-covered with bees. I would encourage you to consider rubbing some bees wax on the Flow frames before adding the super, to speed up the beesā acceptance of the super.
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Brick,
Not sure you need much more advice or thots but what the HECK !
This is Gerald n I live up here in the Pacific NW 20 plus miles SE of Seattle in the foothill. You get a dab or so more chilly than us Washington state folks. If Iād not had two full boxes of stores (Honey) in my hive Iād have either 1) lost them (starvation) or 2) a hefty feed bill ( lots of winter patties, etc ) ā¦
Your gĆ“ng to be ahead of my game starting. I didnāt get my Flow-hive until first of July ā¦ I was able to transfer a 15 frame triple deep Nuc I was raising so that did give them a good jump start but our last big flow was done. Every year n every location has somewhat different circumstances but no matter where you live in North American, Canada n probably UK n Europe itās a minimum two box system. Some areas (colder n longer winters) even a triple box system is needed. . Itās survival of your bees first n foremost unless you want dead hives n repurchasing more Nucs n starting over each year. Thatās not my BAGā¦ Listen to Dawn, Dee, n other locals especially nearby you.
Even with stealing full frames of honey from two varroa mite die-outā¦ My bees are out of honey ā¦ N I stuffed those double deep 5,8, n 10 frame colonies back in October. Iāve been feeding my bees since first of the year. Our Autumn was unusually mild so the hives didnāt size down as quickly this last Fall as normal n even with it being chilly here ā¦ My inside hive monitor says the temps are up n queens probably laying since 1/1/17. They have been out on poop flights, oriention flights as well this week collecting hazelnut pollen.
Putting a honey super on before your brood n deep honey super is near full would be a sad mistake(usually up here)ā¦ ! I know thatās an opinion but based on what I do at my apiary n where I help a local commercial beekeeper at his 6 different apiary.
That MORE than plenty
ā¦
Enjoy your future in Beekeeping.
Good luck n take care,
Gerald
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Gerald
Thank you for the advice. You concur with many others with whom I have corresponded. I will definitely get 2 brood boxes full before adding the honey super flow hive. I pick up my packaged bees in April. By then it should be fairly warm. Depending on our Spring and Summer, weāll see if the girls have time to fill the flow hive this year. Iām not counting on any honey year one, but if I got some it would be a bonus.
Thanks again.
Brick
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Brick,
Itās great to see your interest in bees n doing what locally is best for yours. Iām crossing my finger Iāll make it thru my first full cycle/year somewhat successful ā¦ Loosing two hives last autumn was interesting n humbling as well.
I also have Nucs ordered for approx mid April arrival. Iāve got four coming to replace my loss as well as hopely second season expansion. Iām hoping to over winter 2017-18 about 6 full sized hives as well as maybe 2 to 4 Five double deep Nucs ā¦ At least thatās my dream plans. Iāll take what ever I get ! 
ā¦
By all means if n when you meet your winter honey goal slap the Flow-Super on. I didnāt get any honey but the bees did seal the gaps n cells. A used frame will have bee smell on it. I did prep my frames with beeswax n sprayed 1:1 sugar water ā¦ It got them in there.
Cheers Bro ā¦
Gerald
Dawn maybe you could answer this question:
I put my 2nd brood box under the existing box for most of last summer and then removed it when they wonāt build in the lower box. I removed the box going into winter since it was empty and put it back under the first this spring now they have built swarm cells in old brood box and new brood box is still empty. New brood box is full of natural wired foundation, I havenāt had any issues using the same foundations in my other hives just my flow hive. What is going on? Any ideas?
Bees decide to swarm for their own reasons. Space is one of them, but not the only one. Some strains swarm more readily than others, Carniolans are famous for swarming for example. Some hives swarm more often than others for no apparent reason. I donāt think the nadiring of a brood box is the reason, it is just in the nature of bees to want to swarm. All we can do is try to use various techniques to discourage that.
If you want to prevent this hive from swarming, you may want to consider a split. One of the easiest ways to split is a modified Snelgrove, which is very well described on page 17 of this booklet:
http://www.wbka.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Swarm-Control-Wally-Shaw.pdf
I highly recommend reading the whole article, as it is very informative. 
Any idea why they wonāt expand? Thinking of trying to move the empty box to the top of the first brood box to see if they move up. My girls are Italian and have lots of room/ brood/ honey/ good laying queen there shouldnāt be any reason to swarm except that they have filled their deep. I even gave them their super back since the nectar flow is high right now. I just canāt figure out why the wonāt build in the empty box. Not worried about them swarming, cause they do that and Iām sure theyāll find one of my swarm traps. I have other brood boxs, do you think I should try a different depth box or foundation? Current set up from the top down is super/deep brood/ med. brood/ slatted board/ SBB (closed) with entrance reduced to 3".
If you have swarm cells, they are probably going to swarm unless you split. If you really donāt want to split, you could try moving a couple of frames of brood down into the lower box (keep them adjacent to each other). That way the nurse bees will get the message to use the new space. However, I would split and then recombine once they have lost the swarm urge. 
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Jason, I found I have had a similar problem with the bees not moving into adjacent boxes for brood. Dawn as usual has provided excellent advice -to open up the brood itself. I would replace the frames with drawn comb if you can.
Brick, Iām in Stilwell, KS and have had my FlowHive set up for three years now with absolutely no honey. Have you had any luck with yours? I am not the beekeeper, but I purchased the hive with the hopes that my beek would be seeing results by nowā¦
My first Flow hive is going into its third year. Last fall I harvested about a gallon of honey (not a great harvest). The hive made it through our cold 2018-2019 Winter and looks to be entering the Spring very strong. I plan to put the Flow frame super on the hive by May 1st and anticipate getting more honey this year. I am actually going to be setting up my 2nd Flow hive this Spring.
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Brick I am in KC too we should connect