Looks very good. Well done! 
Neu,
Wow … Awesome ! Look very well done … Very professional looking setup now … Congrat Neu 
… Now your bees can work down into the lower deep super and give you a great brood box soon depending on the local nectar flow.
Here in Washington state I’m working at treating my hives. All seem large n strong enough to accept the Mite Away Strips. I’m helping do this on his 60 to 80 hives then this Monday I’ll do my personal hives.
We are quickly ending our honey season n slowly preparing for the long wet winter ahead. Once the mite control is done I’ll check each hive for food supplies (I have a good idea already)… If hives are low I’ll feed each per their personal needs a 2:1 sugar syrup for a day or so up to a couple weeks. That should more than care for the worst case ! Finally I’ll add top moisture cushions I’m making now n place on the hives under the top roof. I will add a 1 or 2" piece of foam on top the flat hives n under the one peaked Flow-Hive.
After all that … My bees should be ready for their long winters nap n I can sit back n relax … Maybe do several hive or other woodworking projects. I’ll glance at the hives probably each day when I feed my chickens but all in all they are on their own. Depending on weather I might get nosy first of the year but they should be fine.
I might toss on a few pounds if white sugar n pollen Pattie in early January. That’s up in the air currently. Have to see how the GIRLs do !
Wow! Such ramblings… Ta ta,
Gerald.
. P.s. Now back to gardening n harvests.
Oh Gerald you be showing chicken pictures. I also am an egg farmer and have about 150. Here the Christmas Berry bushes are just beginning to flower. It is called Wilelaiki. There is a company that sells an Organic version from Big Island. I also have lots of coconut that is flowering so I am thinking they will enjoy the fruits of fall. Farming does go on year round here so can plant some stuff to keep them in blossoms. Jan mostly rain so I think I will add the super but am not sure when to add. Will hopefully make the meeting in Sept.
They do build down, but you see the bees always clustered at the top of the comb. They prefer to build up. This late in the season, putting an empty box below, the box will stay empty. You have to put it on top at this point.
Evening Card…
Really not sure I’d be doing either type of adding boxes/super (northern hemisphere)… This time of year in my neck of the woods (near Seattle).
Actually, I’ve been pulling supers off for couple weeks as Washington State n Pacific Northwest weather is truely heading FAST into autumn prepping for a long wet cool winter.
Now after a long winters nap 
if my bees survive n I’m trying to do all I can to help them presently I will deal with the OVER/UNDER thingy … So I’m hoping your referring to that time Spring 2017 and not now … I was a beekeeper as a teen 1950’s n 60’s so smart enough to not ADD Supers this time of year in Puget Sound …
Couple pix’s help in a small commercial beeyard.
Thanks for your note.
Gerald
I agree with Jerry. This late in the season, I would not be adding any boxes. Just to clarify, I add new brood boxes underneath existing brood. However, I always add harvesting supers to the top of the hive, as I prefer to use a queen excluder.
Hi all,
My Flow Hive all set to go, here in Albury, Australia, but have to wait for an 8 frame nuc in early November.
Just a question if anyone can answer for me.
If I set up 2 brood boxes, with honey box on top, would it be helpful for the bees if I made another small entrance in the top box somewhere convenient, so that they would not have to traverse so much to get to their flow frames ?
Thanks in advance.
Ray Williams
Albury.
It would not help but would give them the problem of guarding another entrance.
Cheers
Rob.
Thanks Rmcpb.
Gee, they have a lot of work to do, just getting to the top box and through a Queen excluder…
Going through the hive does not bother them at all. Mine seem to manage going up through five deeps at the height of the season with no problems.
Cheers
Rob.
Wondering if you all use a bee escape before harvesting from your Flo or if the frames can be cracked open without disturbing the bees or squashing them.
No I didn’t. I inspected the frames to make sure they were capped. Then I opened them in about 20% sections to avoid flooding the hive. These are a couple of videos showing how it went:
No bees were squashed or drowned, as far as I could tell.
I have a quick question for you. I’m located in the Chicago area and currently have a two brood setup with a flow on top. I noticed during my last hive inspection, that the second brood box is all honey with no brood, which means the the only area for brood is in the bottom box. I see you suggested taking a few frames in the second box and either harvesting the honey or moving them to another brood box to give the queen a place to lay eggs. The last thing I want to do is to stunt their population. If I spin the honey off of the frames, and put them back wet, will the queen lay or will they just fill it back up with honey? I could also just replace them with undrawn frames. I guess I’m just looking for suggestions. Thanks!
Tricky question. At this time of year, although we believe it is still summer, many bee colonies are actually starting winter preparation. That means that they are shrinking the brood area and pulling honey down into the lower levels of the hive.
I think it would be fine to take off at least one frame of honey and give the empty drawn comb back to them. Whether or not the queen will lay in it depends on the bees. If she is ramping down her laying pattern, they will either put honey in it, or it will be left empty. If you want to maximize the chances of her laying in it, I would put one frame back in the middle of the existing brood nest.
I would not put undrawn frames in the hive at this time of year, as it requires a lot of energy to drawn the comb and they will just be using up winter stores to do that, if they even try. I don’t know what kind of bees you have, but if they are Italian, they may need up to 80lb of honey to get through the winter. If they are Russian, Carniolan or local mutts, they may only need 40 to 50lb.