Is your hive booming? If not they will not really be interested in a super? Remove it till your bees are really going for it and use the QE.
Cheers
Rob.
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Have you painted/rubbed wax on the flow frames?
I personally donāt feed if I have a super on.
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Hi all,
Iām just getting into bee keeping as a back yard hobby. I havenāt got a hive yet, but I am anticipating on buying one really soon. But Iām just not sure about the flow because there has been a lot of bad comments about it. A few questions,
-should I get a flow hive over the traditional hive, is it worth the fuss?
-how does the plastic affect the bees, do they care?
-how many hives should I start with?
-how many flow frames should I get if I get a flow hive?
-should I just simply start with a traditional bee hive?
And anything else I need to know please tell me. Thanks
Replys would be greatly appreciated. 
Tom
If you feed above a super you will harvest sugar syrup. Let them 80% fill the broods then put on your super
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- I think for a small backyard beek without extracting equipment the Flow is convenient choice
- IMO they donāt care, I use plastic foundation without issue, donāt see why Flow frames are any different
- best to start with 2 hives so you can compare their progress and share resources between them if needed
- I would get one box worth for each hive, so 6 if youāre going 8-frame langstroth or 7 for 10-frame langstroth. If cost isnāt a factor the āClassic Kitā is a convenient option with everything you need (minus one brood box depending on location)
- the Flow Hive is a traditional bee hive, only the extraction method is different. If you donāt go with the flow frames your other options are to buy a cetrafugal extractor to spin the honey out, or to crush and strain the comb from the frames. All viable options with pros and cons, but to me the Flow is the least mess and fuss for a beginner 2-hive operation.
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I love my Flow hive, but they are expensive. The Western Red Cedar (WRC) is beautiful, and much lighter than pine. That makes it much easier for me to lift compared with pine, which weighs about 50% more for the same volume of wood. However, WRC is pricey wood, so the hive will cost you 2 or 3 times that of an equivalent pine hive. For me, it is worth it. You have to decide whether it is for you. The flow frames are very convenient if you donāt have an extractor. I actually do have both a centrifuge and a crush and strain system. I prefer the Flow frame extraction for the benefit of keeping the sticky mess outside, and minimizing honey losses from uncapping etc.
Some bees take to it right away, others have been reluctant. Many Flow users have found that brushing on melted wax, or rubbing some excess burr comb onto the frames helps a lot with speeding up acceptance by the bees.
I would suggest two, as others have said. More than that could be overwhelming at first. Fewer than 2 means that if you lose a colony, you have a 100% loss and have to start over. With a second hive, you may be able to recover by splitting etc.
Depends on your preference. I kept it simple. All of my hives are 8-frame Langstroth, because I really canāt lift a 10-frame deep box. So I got the 6-frame Flow super. You could go with a hybrid super, but I prefer to keep it simple and have the super all Flow or all traditional frames. You only need one Flow super per hive, as you can harvest on the hive, and let the bees re-fill it straight away.
Depends on finances and your tolerance for sticky messes! 
If I had unlimited resources, I would choose a WRC Flow hive every time. If you donāt do that, you will have to buy some kind of setup for extraction, or go with comb honey.
I would start traditional since you have to anyway. You may decide it isnāt your cup of tea so by going conventional you arenāt out $700+. You donāt say where you are from and since beekeeping is very local, itās hard to give any more advice.
Start at least 2 hives:
If it gets cold where you are, build your hives to three eight frame deep brood boxes for the bees to live. . Once they are full (2nd year) then you can add supers. By doing three boxes, you really donāt have to worry about feeding them; theyāre more sustainable. Feeding creates a whole new list of concerns lol.
With only two hives, you can just harvest a frame or three when you want some honey and scrape the frame into a funnel with course filter. Donāt bother with an extractor unless you get over 6 or 7 hives.
If you decide beekeeping is for you, splurge for a Flow Hive and give it a go.
You are wise to ask questions first and not impulse buy.
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Thank you all so much for the replys. I was thinking about getting one flow and one traditional hive to begin? Can I still compare them the same?
Also why is there so much criticism about the flow? Whatās the reason?
Thanks
Also I live on the Gold Coast Australia. Any other tips I need to know from anyone?
Because quite a few people who work traditional supers have the impression that folk who go down the Flow route get the hive and the bees then ask what to do with them, rather than learn to keep bees then get the hardware and livestock.
Some have, some havenāt ā¦same as any hobby
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This is just a theory at the moment, butā¦ Bees prefer real nectar over sugar syrup, and will ignore syrup if a flow is on, so,ā¦ surely if you use a light syrup to encourage wax building, while there is a flow on, and they use the syrup up at night time, they are unlikely to store it, but use it to build comb (or wax the flow frames).
?
Itās not quite a hypothesis, but this is basically what I have been doing this spring to get lots of comb built to grow my apiary. I havenāt yet put the flow box on, but am considering doing just that this week (for the first time, so frames are just plastic). Of course, I donāt want sugar syrup in the frames, but I do want them waxed up quickly and not ignoredā¦ There is plenty of flowers in bloom, the bees are busy, but they are still taking down the 2:1 syrup very quickly.
P
Yes you can. I did exactly that. For an accurate comparison, they need to be the same size - i.e. both 8-Frame Langstroth or both 10-frame Lang.
Many reasons, but I think it is mainly that it is new, and many people hate change and new stuff.
Hi Tom, I have a flow and a traditional hive in Southport. However I am a relative new beek, I am happy to help out and show you my hive anytime Dave
Thanks dave, sounds good. Could I maybe have your email to contact you about further dates?
Hi, My local bee keeper obviously does like the flow, and his strongest agument is that the plastic frames in the split cell technology in flow will become brittle and brake over time. Is this correct?
-How strong is the plastic?
-Should I go against his word and get a flow hive, will he still support me as a member with the hive?
-should I get wax foundation frames or foundationless?
-can I still start a bee hive in summer instead of spring.
Sorry about all the questions.
Tom
Answered on the other thread where you posted the same questions.
http://forum.honeyflow.com/t/the-plastic-used-for-the-frames/1606/25?u=dawn_sd
Hi Tom,
I see no reason for him not to support you as a member, it may satisfy his curiosity to see how it works. If you are new to this, then go with foundation, it ensures that your bees will build straight comb. Summer is an excellent time to get your bees.
Thanks rodderick for the advice.
One more thing sorry.
-should I sell my honey with only 2 bee hives? Is it worth it
If you have more than you need or can give away?