Do they mean " end storage" when they say “side storage”?
They say that there is one million currently in use and they market them now at 30 frames with the extra length assisting in early spring brood growth. Will be interesting to see how @semaphore goes, but if I do not keep Bunnings in business, who can they depend upon:grin:
Cheers
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This is a photo from page 18 of the DeLayens hive he is referring to (bottom of page):
https://archive.org/stream/cu31924003428897#page/n33/mode/1up
From the same reference on page 10:
Mr. Dadant senior then tried Quinby hives of different capacities, up to 20 frames of comb, or with a capacity of 3780, square inches of comb. These were too large by all means, and although we used some 40 of them for several years, we could only produce honey on what was later called "the long idea,’ that is to say we had both brood and surplus honey in the same apartment. Although the colony usually occupied one side of the hive with brood, the queen often roamed from one end of the hive to the other and honey sometimes had to be extracted from combs containing brood, a very undesirable arrangement.
With a photo of a 20 frame Dadant hive:
The full book is available from the Internet archive here:
Will save me pasting any more links back in and taking the conversation too far off track 
It would appear I require more research, but I figure in the bee world more research = more / different /alternate/ conflicting/ contrasting answers, so there is a fair chance I will find the answer I want!!!
Now that being said I will approach with an open mind and do appreciate your input as I only have 6 months experience under my belt. I do figure though that I have a get out of goal free card in that I am designing a divider to go in the middle so I can have 2 hives instead of one
Cheers
I contributed to the discussion on long hives here too, which has some of my own experiments in this hive style:
Vertical Queen Excluders... langstroth deep frame
So did the long long hives work?
To be completely honest, I never got that far. I built bases for the hive and vertical excluders/followers etc. but I was never satisfied enough with the top cover design to complete the hive and introduce bees.
The above posted video has the best top cover design and the one I planned to use.
I’ve now shifted focus to other hive components using CAD/laser cutting, as I’m not convinced the long hives will work well where I am geographically now (Canberra). I was confident they would have worked well where I was in Queensland, but unfortunately didn’t have the time to test it.
This is purely a hobby for me, no laser cutting or cad , just some tools in the shed and Bunnings down the road, so I will continue with the horizontal hive, design next 6 weeks and then my build, then my rebuild, then my minor adjustments and then the bees, I only have the one hive so I am not under a great deal of pressure
Cheers
Following the discussion, have been exploring many different options … horizontal long hives, layens, lazutin, tall vertical hives (like Warre) and have come down to a design I think is like what you are talking … a Layens hive (basically) with 24 frames each 12 inches wide by about 20 inches deep with the honey super (6 flow frames) tacked on the end running perpendicular to the brood box. I’m thinking that will make it easier for the bees to get to the various flow frames from the brood box.
Randy, I had one long box with a divider in the middle and 13 frames each side ( brood) then queen excluder then 3 flow frames running parallel to brood frames. Mine did not work! I think the problem was in part due to the volume of space vs the size/ number of bees in the hive vs the ambient temperature ( I did use follower boards to keep size if space to a minimum). Randy I am not sure of your temp patterns in Texas especially at night but temperature might be one of the things to consider.
Anyway, good luck with your project and would appreciate you advising of your progress cheers
Jeff
@Semaphore , can I ask how your adapted long lang has gone? Did your bees take to the flow frames well, going the same direction as the regular frames?
I’m in Kentucky so, not the mild climate of San Fran. 
(Apologies if this conversation was continued somewhere else.)
Hopefully @Semaphore drops past to answer your question, it has been a while since we have seen him. If you use the search function with both horizontal hive and long Lang you will get a bunch of returns where people report on the success of their long hives with flow frames.
I certainly like mine
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