I am a little confused here about what to do with the flow frames when treating for Varroa.
Whether with Apistan or Bayvarol neither suggest keeping traditional frames on as honey is then not fit for consumption.
Logical step is then to take the frames off I would assume or is it any different being fully plastic frames?
If so is it best to keep them in the freezer
New hive and bees have only just partially filled the gaps with wax and yet to fill any cells with nectar/honey.
Any help here would be appreciated. It is autum here in New Zealand and really time to be treating. I know I am probably going to have to feed them over winter now.
Sorry ! I don’t know that answer but guess someone will pop in here soon with ideas n answer. I’m looking forward to the ANSWER as well … Each product does have different requirements so you might post the treatment your going to use to help with your needed answer. Good luck n I’ll check back on you to see what others will post !
I don’t treat for Varroa and have not treated at all for 13 years. But if I were to do so (which I would not) I would remove any supers. That is the standard procedure. Many of the treatments are lipophilic (loves wax/oil) and will accumulate in the wax.
Michael Bush has worked hard to have bees that deal with varroa. Not everybody’s can and it is foolish to not treat your one and only hive unless you know the mite load is acceptable. Sorry, that’s just my opinion. Back to your super. Clear the bees and take it away before treating unless you are using MAQS when you NEED the space above. After treating empty the honey out and either eat it or feed it back to the bees if it isn’t capped.
I’m inclined to agree, Beekeepers who have many hives tend to forget Hobby beeks are not in it for the money but we want to preserve what we have and perhaps more protective of our bees as we have more to loose - I would love to have resistant bees - Ill just have to wait for the genes to improve and become naturally resistant