Number 2. Take the QX off or they will propolize it in place. 
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Hi Romeo, The thing that helps prevent chalk brood is to avoid brood inspections during damp weather. Donāt expose brood to cold - damp weather. Reduce the entrance during winter. I like to avoid the entrance opening straight in front of the brood. I like to reduce the entrance in the middle these days. That way I have 2 small entrances, one each side. By doing that, the bulk of the brood is situated behind the entrance reducer, blocking cold air from blowing onto it.
When I put a split in a super that doesnāt fill a super, I put the colony on one side, with the small entrance on the other side. That keeps draft away from the brood.
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@Romeoc I agree with JeffH completely in his advice about keeping the brood area free of any cold drafts. The rest of the hive can cope with a cold draft but the most important area is the brood.
As you can see in this pic I have two entrances, one on each side, That is one hive sitting on another and not a top entrance. I think that is an excellent idea in cooler climate to keep the brood area draft free. The entrance size is the same as a single entrance. My thinking it would also help the bees in a hot climate as there is no air vortex (doldrum) so it should give better air circulation so less bees need to move out hot air. One entrance for air in and one for fanning hot air out. It might be a good thing for Adelaideās climate.
Cheers
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yes- as dawn said remove the QX and place the board on top. Cover the hole with a tile or similar over the winter.
you really want to remove that flow box ASAP. If you have time and it is warm do an inspection to see what is going on below. If you have a box full of bees with some very nice brood combs- it mght be possible for you to consider replacing the flow box in about 35 days just before spring hits. You donāt want to put the flow back on until the brood box is really pumping with good frames of brood in all stages and bees covering just about every frame. If any frames in the brood box are not being used- it is unlikely the bees will use the flow box.
I just inspected all my hives at home today- I was lucky to have a very experienced urban beekeeper from Sydney visting (Vicky Brown). She gave me a msterclass on catching queens for marking and many other good tips (she lets the queen run into her hand rather than grabbing it- then lets it poke itās head out of a hole in her fingers so she can mark it very gently.) She also told me what to expect once beetles arrive here in greater force. One of my hives was very weak so we took the best 5 frames out and put them into a smaller Nuc Box. Another hive was very powerful so I removed a frame that was completely honey and gave them an empty comb to give them some space and keep them busy.
So far- it has been a kind winter- lots of pollen coming in today. If this good weather holds we are well placed for a start to spring. Having said that- no matter how good the conditions- the hive will not be able to take advantage if they are not strong enough. The weak hive I looked at will only just make it to spring if it makes it at all. I wouldnāt expect it to produce any honey for many months. The strong one on the other hand might fill a flow box in one month of spring- if conditions are good with the flowers.
Itās not really a surprise that your flow didnāt fill last season- as it was a very poor season in most of SA. Most of my hives hardly produced if at all. However my mumās hive filled the flow box twice (as oposed to 4 times in a very good year).
Thanks @Dawn_SD will do that.
Thanks @Semaphore , @JeffH and @Peter48. Great advice from all you guys!
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I like the idea of covering the hole in the middle permanently, however at the same time, provide some slots around the perimeter so that bees have access to the roof area. That will act the same as a hive mat. Ultimately I prefer to use a hive mat instead of a crown board. Then fit a shim under the roof so it still fits properly. The bees will then propolize the roof down, negating the need for tie-down straps etc.
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I actually use a hive mat under the crown board- just thin vinyl. I understand you thinking about letting the bees access the roof- but in winter I like to close it down completely- they never go up there in winter anyway. In spring I often open them up again.
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It appears this weather in Adelaide is not going to be conducive to opening the hive. I am a bit worried as you all have said I get the FS off
You could try keeping the hive a bit warmer by wrapping it in black plastic over the roof and down the sides. It is an option, especially if there is honey stores in the flow hive, tape it in place with duct tape, it will help a lot in keeping the hive warm. Buy the heavy duty stuff from a hardware store, the plastic garbage bags are a waste of time, it will tear with a wind blowing on it.
Donāt open the hive if it is cold weather, it can be the kiss of death.
Cheers
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Just an idea I would like to run past the forumā¦
Suppose I took a fan heater and get someone to direct it on the low setting towards the roof as I take it off and keep it aimed downwards while I quickly remove the FS and the QX and then place the top cover and roof.
Before I did anything I would crack the seal all around and also try to twist the FS this way and that way to make sure the bees have not stuck the whole blessed thing together.
a)Would that work. b)Would it be detrimental to the bees c)Would the bees get cranky.
Awaiting your opinions.
There is absolutely nothing in th FS.
In fact when it Iād cold the isnāt a single bee up there and the hive is deathly silent you would think they were all dead.
Sorry. It should read in fact when itās cold there isnāt a single bee up thereā¦ā
Ok, when you get a day over 22c and no wind over the hive I would remove the super, it will only have the hive open for a few minutes and with the super off the hive will quickly recover temperature. Put the super laying in its side right at the hive entrance and the bees will take any honey back into the hive. If there is no bees in the super then bag it straight away as the super wonāt have honey in it. When the bees have lost interest in the super use the super sized garbage bags to wrap the super and tape it closed, store it in a cool dry place till it is needed again when Spring time kicks in.
Check that there is honey stores in the outer brood box frames, just do that, and feed if it is needed. Donāt spend time looking at any of the frames with brood, your only there for a minute or two to checking that they have honey to keep them going.
Cheers
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As @Peter48 says, if you pick a decent day with little or no wind, set yourself up beforehand to make as few moves as you can, and then do the quick off/on maneuvers the bees will be okay.
Last year when storing Flow and other regular drawn frames I tried something new because I dislike using big garbage bags if I can help it. I stacked all my boxes on the side porch with parchment paper in between each box containing frames, to create barriers against insects. They stayed cold and dry, and even tiny ants never got through!
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It has been a while since you posted so what about an update on how the hive got on, what will you change in your hive management for next Winter and how are things now?
Cheers
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Sorry it took me so long to respond but at the time I was in Savanah GA. I am in Lakeland Fl now and having the same issue. Frames were in storage a long time so I am trying the same trick I did before. I hope it works.
This was Savannah GA but Iām in Fla now in Lakeland.
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