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Winterizing with Flow Hive 2


Hi Y’all,
I’ve not dropped by the forum for a while but I just bought my 3rd flow hive and it’s the Flow 2. WHOOP! I’m so excited ESPECIALLY since I got honey from my flow super for the first time.

So I’m already cogitating on how to winterize with the new stand and wonder if anyone has gone down that path yet. I’m also wondering if anyone has done a verroa treatment with the hot iron wand do dad that gets hot and if they have any tips. :smiley:

I can’t wait to get my new hive! :smiley:



I do it all the time, but I treat for Varroa, not verroa. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: :rofl:

I remove the coreflute slider and replace it with a doubled sheet of flashing in the lower slot. The hot iron goes in from the back of the hive on top of the flashing. No burning of bees, wood or wax because the heater is on the flashing. Works brilliantly.

If you try to put it in from the front, it may not fit very well, which is why I do it the way I described.



I’ve got my flashing ready to treat in a week or 2 on the original hives. I never forgot that suggestion and I’ve shared it with others who use the hot iron thingy. :smiley: HI Dawn! Yup, the incorrect spelling is stuck in my head.


Hi Martha,

I don’t quite understand your question sorry. What do you mean by winterizing with the new stand?
Are you asking about the built-in ventilation controls?


yes and the tray is deep and more space for the bees to try to keep warm in the winter. Should one put cedar chips in the bottom? any other thing to help keep the hive warm?


There are 2 options for the built-in ventilation control:

  1. The spirit level sits on top of the brass knob: this blocks ventilation


  1. The brass knob sits above the spirit level: this allows ventilation to pass through the vents.

This video shows you the 2 different ways in which you can position your built-in ventilation control.

I’m not sure about wood chips in the bottom. I’ve only seen things on the top of the hive, maybe @Gerald_Nickel has a suggestion? I think I’ve seen him using wood shavings in his roof.
From our instruction manual, it is only used for pest control and should be cleaned out prior to harvesting.

The other thing you could potentially put in there is diatomaceous earth or lime, like this Small Hive Beetle trap:

Hope that helps :slight_smile:



As for that slider trap or whatever its called … I’d just flip it over … like said the bottom void is no more a void/extra space to heat. Or if it’s really cold/freezing a properly sized piece of styrofoam might do it too. Here in Puget Sound we don’t get that cold I’d worry n just flip n forget the wood chips. That would be a pain … n chips do settle some.

Now here’s the simple moisture cushion I use during the late Fall/Winter/early Spring. As the colonies condensate rises it is obsorbed by the wood chip in this cushion box. The box is screened in the bottom with layer of duct cloth n wood chips filled in … the large screened side holes help carry-off the excess moisture.

Hope this helps,



It will! I guess having it physically is going to help too. Mine ships October. I’m already getting geared for winter so I won’t be in a panic for equipment.


Oh man I can’t wait to try that. I’m using cooking spray on the corrugated board. That will be less messy and my garden soil is high ph so that’s a bonus in clean up!


I use Vivaldi boards but I think it’s the same thing different name and configuration. I use burlap in lieu of cedar. But I might pack the flow 2 bottom board with cedar chips.



Actually, I’m using chicken bedding chip which are hemlock wood locally. I can get cedar but not good for the hens because of splinter n possible off gassing…



More burlap? Tractor Supply might not carry that