Are my bees well nourished?

Quality nourishment (foraged pollen and nectar) is critical for strong, vibrant and healthy bees. Also for the strength to ward off the onslaught of pests, diseases and other environmental pressures modern bee colonies are constantly faced with.

What does a beekeeper do if their colony is struggling nutritionally? How can I tell if my bees are malnourished or dealing with something else such as a moisture issue, other pest or disease, environmental condition etc.

Below are some of my thoughts on identifying a nourished vs. malnourished colony.

Nourished Colony

  • Healthy Larvae i.e. pearly white in colour and juicy looking
  • Larva is in a pool of jelly (the more generous the pool of jelly, the healthier the larva)
  • Abundant pollen stores (I’d suggest at least half a frame) with a wide range of different colours (the more colours, the more diversity it vitamins, minerals etc.)
  • Pollen pockets are frequently observed at the front of the hive (e.g. more than 10 pollen pockets a minute)
  • Strong and lively activity at the front of the hive (this is highly subjective to time of day, season, location etc.)
  • Strong brood pattern i.e. large areas of brood similar in age (egg, larva, capped)
  • Nectar and honey stores

Malnourished Colony

  • Dry looking larvae
  • Brown or discolored larvae
  • Patchy and/or shotgun brood pattern
  • Minimal to no pollen stores
  • Minimal to no honey stores

So, what does a beekeeper do if their bees are looking on the more malnourished side? Below are some of my thoughts most relevant for those in Australia or temperate to sub-tropical climates.

  1. Help the bees help themselves with some potentially small but critically important steps: Make sure they have enough sun and aren’t working against unnecessary moisture issues, dampness, mould etc. Morning sun is best and at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day. Consolidate the hive if required, remove any unused boxes.
  2. Make sure your colony has access to clean water free from chemicals. Bees prefer dirty water but this can still be considered clean if it’s a fresh pond with fish or running water, or birdbath with mossy rocks that often refreshed, for example.
  3. Be mindful of any chemicals being sprayed locally that could be affecting your bees. If you know a neighbor spraying, perhaps consider offering them some honey for the chance to talk to them about responsible spraying, integrated pest management gardening, or the health benefits a weedy garden offers the local pollinator community.
  4. Help your bees by planting a selected range of plants for year-round forage. There are some incredible online resources for what to plant in Australia for honey bees (and native) e.g. Bee Friendly by Mark Leech. Tulsi basil is a favourite of mine, healthy for humans and bees, and flowers for most months of the year. It’s also so easy to grow, is beautiful, and the bush can grow huge or kept small.
  5. Spread the planting love by raising seeds and sharing them with your neighbours
  6. Feeding your colony honey that is safe and free from AFB spores (from the same apiary is best practice), instead of sugar syrup when supplementing is required
  7. I’ve never had to feed my bees pollen as they’ve always had some amount coming in through the entrance, albeit the quality of the pollen source should always be questioned.

I’d love to hear what others may do to help their bees nutritionally, and any suggestions in different climates.

Is there a general consideration for the quality of nutrition from backyard beekeepers?

B

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