Sounds like your on the right track n moving ahead. It’s important to have the brood box n frames done n ready. It’s takes a bit for the bees to draw out what you have in the lower box depending on where you live.
I am returning to beekeeping after 55 years away. It was my school Agriculture project for 6 years. Then off to School, Army n Vietnam… Now getting to semi-retirement satus at 70 years. Built a small woodshop winter of 2014-15 n 3 setups of hive boxes this winter. My Nuc’s arrive sometime mid April. Here’s my setups: I leave in foothills of Puget Sound SE of Seattle. We run double brood boxes in our region so that why the stack of boxes n top feeder, etc.
I have not received my hive yet and I know nothing. When you use two brood boxes, what goes between the two boxes and how do the bees get from one box to the other? Thanks.
here is a pix of a two double hive box. The honeybees usually enter thru the bottom n crawl up thru the frames. The nursery is usually in the honeycomb in the bottom box with some pollen n honey stores. The second is often the larger honey storage or in your case the Flow-hive.
I’d strongly suggest if your going to be a beekeeper you find a couple of good books on raising bees as well as pop on the you-tube n select raising bees. It is wise to familiarize yourself a bit bee knowledge before launching into this hobby. It’s a great hobby but some work as well.
Good luck n enjoy !
One further note. I’d find a local beekeeper and/or club to check out beekeeping up close n personal. Check this avenue … It might quickly further your knowledge n interest so you can successfully move ahead. Gerald.
I agree with Gerald! Getting in touch with my local and state beekeeping organizations is the best thing!! Often they will host beekeeping schools for beginners. My local club offered a free one last year and I am attending another one at the end of this February. The February on cost me $72 for 2 of us and included a membership to our state organization. Super informative and it’s fun to get to meet other folks that are passionate about bees!!
You asked if there’s anything that goes between the boxes. I have a queen excluder, which is a thin (maybe 1/8th inch) sheet with rectangular holes (Google it for a pic). The queen excluder sets on top of the brood box and then you set the super (the one with the flow frames) on top of the queen excluder. The holes are big enough for worker bees to climb through. But the queen is to big. This will keep the queen laying only in the brood box. You don’t want the queen to lay eggs in your flow frames(where the honey is).
If you are like me and the State club is all located 6 (6+ hours from you) maybe if you have a nearby Farmers Market go and see if anyone is selling local Honey. Not all who do are beekeepers, but in my case mine is and now I’ll be learning from him.
. The QE or Queen Excluder sits about the brood are or below the honey supers. It is to prevent the queen from laying eggs in the honey frames or Flow-Super. In convention Langstroth some people prefer not to use them. They have there reasons that can be read in many beekeeping books. I prefer to use mine.
Gerald, does that QX have a frame?
It looks like it doesn’t. I use similar but set in a wooden frame giving me beespace between it and the bottom bars above. That way the bees don’t brace the frames to the QX. I don’t suppose it matters if you have nothing but flow frames above
I just received my hive and have not even opened the box. Does everyone apply the Tung oil after it is complete or would your treat each piece prior to construction to protect and seal it? We have a moist climate at times and I was thinking it would best protect wood. I am not sure and I was wondering if it harms the bees inside. Obviously I am a new bee.
I would recommend building it first, but without the plastic windows, then sealing it with Tung Oil. You only need to put Tung Oil on the outside - it is weatherproofing, and the bees will do what they need to the inside with wax and propolis. It is non-toxic and doesn’t harm the bees at all as long as you use pure Tung Oil. However, I would complete the coating at least 2-3 weeks before you put bees inside, as it takes about that long to fully cure so that it is dry to the touch. Put the plastic parts in once you have applied the final coat - that will save you from needing to mask them off.
Dee,
Not sure yet on my new hives. These are all just sitting empty waiting Nuc’s to get here mid April. I just have them stack to keep them neat until bees arrive … Unless we get one bunch of nectar flows this Spring/Summer the QE’s will go into storage in my woodshop. This winter I only watched n checked a buddies for practice. So any pics with me n bees so far are me working with his double box set up. He is my mentor n Nuc’s supplier. I am taking beekeeping classes thru his bee business. At this time I am the only student allowed the work with this late Summer Swarm we are trying to bring thru the winter. I am lucky to get this extra experience n contact until I get my own hives going. It’s bring back a few smells, feelings, n technics back.
Dee,
Everyone around here uses doubles. I am curiously n decerningly watching our flowers coming, developing n ending so far this season. My Nuc’s don’t arrive until mid April so some of the very early nectar flows are not useful this year but notes should be helpful for next Spring 2017.
I leave in foothills of Puget Sound SE of Seattle. We run double brood boxes in our region so that why the stack of boxes n top feeder, etc.
back a few smells, feelings, n technics back.
