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Flow Hive assembly video from Flow :)


#1

Here is the link to the assembly of the Flow Hive - http://bit.ly/1NZmMkc


Packing materials list
#2

Another great video . Nice to put a face to the name


#3

So, I was just watching this and I need an explanation if anything needs to be put onto the brood frames, i.e. Something for the bees to build onto?
I am giving the hive as a gift and want to give the complete package, thereof the question.


#4

The frames are designed to work without foundation. You can put foundation into them, if you want to, using the holes for wire. However, the bees don’t necessarily need the foundation at all.


#5

@Bojan

These frames are set as foundation-less. There is nothing stopping you from adding foundation of you choose.

I’m guessing the Flow team decided against was for several reasons.

  1. Some beeks prefer foundation-less

  2. Some countries may not allow importation of wax products - Australia being one such

  3. It is easier to let people choose how they want to run their frames

  4. Not everyone may be using Langstroths


#6

Ok, that sounds good. As I am a n00b I didn’t know that the bees actually knew how to build onto foundationless frames.
Isn’t there a risk that they will build across the frames making it impossible to extract frames one by one for inspection purposes?


#7

Yes.
The way round that is to alternate foundation and empty frames and make sure your hive is dead level.


#8

Hi Bojan, a strategy I would suggest you follow would be: if you purchase a 4 frame nuc, assuming the 4 frames are included with the nuc. Place those in the middle of the brood box flanked by your foundationless frames, if foundationless is the way you want to go. If you can find someone to help you with properly inserting foundation in your brood combs, that would be better in my opinion. However that’s only my opinion. Good luck with everything, cheers


#9

I wish that this video would have been available earlier that Jan 4th. The information about pre drilling the holes for the metal strip would have kept me from splitting mine.


#10

I agree also that the video would have been a big help much earlier, but better late than never.

However, the video should reflect the instructions exactly as they are included with the supplied kit otherwise it can lead to confusion and there is no mention in the kit about pre drilling, so there’s a valid assumption that none is required and all necessary pre drilling has been done at the factory. The video shows pre drilling on the roof assembly as well.

I had already put mine together before I saw the video and fortunately I didn’t get any splitting although after reading a previous post about countersinking, I did that on some holes that I thought might be a split risk.

If there are going to be refinements to assembly processes and updating the included instructions is impractical, then maybe including a reference to the website or forum for updates in the assembly instructions would help.

Videos are great. :-)sunglasses:


#11

Sorry about that @Rudyjr and @Redneck - I have passed this on to the team so we can improve it in the future :slightly_smiling:


#12

Redneck in response to the removed part of your post the dovetails on my super are off too.Only after some chiseling can you tap the door section in place with the heel of your hand. I can see it is going to take some work to get it so it is removable.


#13

ok, the only reason I removed part of the post was because I realised I had posted it elsewhere. The door section is particularly touchy to ‘adjustments’ because it needs to be able to be removed, whereas the normal dovetails can be screwed together after they have been chiselled and never moved again.

That is where the sandpaper came into it…mine is still snug after the chiselling and sandpaper and I noticed that by chiselling the dovetails to allow them to move easily, the arch was put out of alignment slightly, so the sandpapering was required to readjust it.

Mine is still relatively tight, but not to the extent of pulling the box off the stand to get the window open, but I may have to do some more sandpapering after oiling, or maybe the oiling might make it easier to open.


#14

Hi all,

I usually dry run assembly to see all parts fit well n shave or clean up as needed before final assembly. As a medium talented wood worker my dad years ago taught me to square n predrlll. I found he was a wiseman.

Now I build or assemble hive kits n my own fabricated hives. I’ve made many small mistakes n I call that learning. It’s part of the journey. I look forward to ordering one of these amazing cedar Flow-hives soon. I usually glue my joints as well as nail or screw. Seems to make my normal pine boxes a bit stronger but not sure what Flow recommends. Enjoy the whole journey ! :wink:. Gerald


#15

I think we’re definitely going to need to make the instructions clearer – especially for the back (Flow door) of the box. It is absolutely critical that this part be in place during the install of the metal strip, and the box sides aren’t pinched inward at all during the install of that strip. Otherwise the box end will get stuck and you’ll have to sand/chisel as they described.

Thanks,
Matt