Billy,
The extra small box under my double deep hive boxes is my pollen trap. I’ve been able to harvest a good quaniety for making winter/spring pollen patties. I’m trying experiments at different things n methods this season. 
. Here I am checking the trap drawer with a good amount of pollen. 
. Hopefully that explains my Flow n lower box …,
Ta ta,
Gerald
Whatever kind of frames you use, plastic wood etc. and whatever kind of foundation you use, none, wax plastic, the bees will glue everything together. The issue are whether they build the comb in the frame. They are as likely to build the comb on plastic foundation wrong as on foundationless. The reason it matters if it’s natural comb is that the brood nest is the womb of the hive and natural cells size and clean wax matter there more than other places. If the bees have build comb outside of the frames where you are tearing it to get the frames out, then flip the box upside down, remove the box from the frames. Then cut each comb out and rubber band it into empty frames (each comb you cut out will free up another empty frame).
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesfoundationless.htm
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesnaturalcell.htm
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesfoursimplesteps.htm#comb
well bummer I did not use glue and I only had 3 nails for each frame so I sure hope when I finally open to check it wont fall apart ARGHH. I was going to give it a couple months to settle in before I switched out my med pine box with a cedar. I dont think I need to worry about cool temps since it is not cool here.
Neu,
It’s a learning curse for all of us ! Just remember the GLUE next time. It’s kind of nice having year around foraging even a little to keep the bee dinner table full. Thankz for the update from over here !
Take care,
Gerald
So what kind of glue is ok for bees.
One little tip for those who haven’t thought of it on their own;
I keep a long narrow knife in my bee kit. When I have crazy cross comb causing conniptions I slice it, while still in the box, off the wall and between frames with the cross comb. Makes it easier to remove frames without breaking the comb. Just go slow so the girls can get out of the way. It will cause some damage, and mess, but less in my experience than pulling the frames while still gummed up to each other.
Also when using foundationless we start the frames pushed tight to each other and tight against one side. If you have some already drawn frames interspersing them with the foundationless is helpful.
Going with a nice tight fit of 9 frames in an 8 frame box helps keep the comb neat too.
And none of this has to to do with the Flow frame, any hive will have issues with cross comb etc. Don’t be afraid to cut it back.
Just good bee knowledge n skill … I’ve been extremely lucky this season with only one slight cross-comb once … Knock on wood frames I’ll have same good luck next season … Crossing my fingers.
Just removed my Flow-Frame box today n got that hive about ready for winter. Four more to GO n we can relax a bit. Might get one small late season English Ivy flow … That why I took the Flow off today. Ivy honey loved to crystalize.
Any standard PVA wood glue is fine, just let it dry for 24 hours before you put it in the hive. I use Titebond 3, great stuff!
https://www.amazon.com/Franklin-International-1414-Titebond-3-Ultimate/dp/B0002YQ3KA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473657709&sr=8-1&keywords=titebond
The smart ass in me wants to ask “why you are gluing your bees?” ; -)
I use plain old wood glue. I doubt any of it is good for bees, but once it is dry it seems pretty inert.
Ha ha on gluing bees! 
My bees do quite a good job of gluing things I don’t want glued, while not gluing things which would help me. Fortunately they don’t seem to glue themselves… 
Titebond 3 is specifically FDA approved for indirect food contact once dry. That was a major deciding factor for me in choosing it.
