G’day Kim… here is an alternative which may best fit all of your question in
showing a workable way forward every year at this time of colony management - coming fall moving into winter.
Build your second broodbox(B2) using frames #1+#2+#8+#9 from B1.
Place those frames at positions #3 through #7 in B2. Add new frames with foundation in place to #1+#2+#8+9 in B2. Add new frames with foundation in place to the vacancies now existing in B1.
Assemble placing queen excluder(QE) below the Flow super.
When packing for wintering, extract any full frames in the Flow super and
bottle those. Extract the remaining into a tight container and store as “bee feed”. Remove the Flow super and QE, placing the Flow super on an antproof riser in front of the entrance to the hive. Depending on heights a 100mm wide ramp could be used from the top of the Flow super to the entrance.
When cleaned out (next day?) remove the Flow super to your equipment storeroom.
Next Spring - the weekend following the first of flows - take any splits from a mix of frames sorted between B1 and B2. Make out of the remaining frames assortment a single broodbox of fully drawn combs with a central brood core in at least frames #4+#5+#6 and some drone comb at #9.
Restack the hive with QE and Flow super, adding a queen restrictor to the entrance for at least another 10days.
Repeat ad nausueam each year.
Tips - or maybe “of importance”?
For the new player stack manipulations need to be positive yet calm
To help with gaining confidence, suit up but try and avoid using gloves.
When pulling frames and replacing same, always remove frame #8+#9 or #1+#2 first, then slide the frames you work with away from the next before pulling. Reverse that action when installing a frame.
For smoker use - a neccessity for new players - the optimum is to recruit a helper whose sole duty is to apply “puffs” at your direction. Pick someone who is as calm as you need to be. Make very sure whatever material you choose to burn is wholly chemical free - be aware some timbers own toxins which set bees off in a tizzy.
Have close handy, like in your pocket or resting on the box body, a sturdy wide bladed short bladed knife with a fine edge but not sharp.
My personal choice is this one, for some years now, and all it gets used for;
Spyderco C142GP Resilience Folding
How to use it is to scrape along the skin towards the pulsing stinger in one swift move, ejecting the stinger. It does take practice. You have at least 10seconds to remove the sting before getting the full venom hit so take your time and be accurate, first time.
When one bee loves you others may follow, more so if you react with sudden moves. Calm positive actions with knife and smoke will deter followers.There is the solution for “no gloves” as the new player grows in confidence.
It is important only becauae as you start out so shall you adopt for all time.
I have witnessed many a “experienced beek” fumbling around boxes in full suit and armoured gloves… doing more harm than good. Frankly.
Your goal, in time, is to be confident enough on a good day to lift the lid on
a hive using just a little smoke at the entrance, and then the top ventilation aperture, dressed in no more than a hat, shirt, shorts/boxers and thongs (flipflops).
My “beekeeper kit” for more years than I care to remember… back when the bod(y) did not scare young children I only ever wore shorts+thongs+hat.
Today that approach, like some of my editorial, scares more folk than it helps