$15 to $20 per 12oz (340g) jar and comb honey is $2 per ounce. Yes the price is high, but I usually sell out. 
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Is that USD? wowsers - great stuff!
Thatās what Iām trying to chargeā¦ just to recoupe on cost of jars and new framesā¦ but seem to be giving away more than I sell 
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Yes, US$. I sell it on a local web site and call it āultra localā honey. Most of the people who buy it live less than 2 miles from the hives, and they want to eat honey from their local flowers. 
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Thanks @skeggley @Wandjina @fffffred and @Dawn_SD for sharing your price. I see that at least Iām in line with others around here.
Dawn, that is an amazing price, well done. I think the location also helps. I can see higher prices if someone tries to sell in Perth itself, or tourist areas, or more affluent suburbs, but I canāt see me ever getting those sort of prices from neighbours here. They are a bit more price conscious, like myself, after all.
Fred, big mistake. I donāt mind giving away to immediate family of course, and very close friends, but thatās where I draw a line. When I started beekeeping I gave away a small jar to some neighbours, and now they just expect it for free every time. I also have this lady, next property down, and she says my honey is the best she ever tasted. Now that is total bullocks of course, itās just honeyā¦ yet doesnāt like to pay. She wants some for her and her daughter āwhenever I have some extraā. Fā¦
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I have a big familyā¦
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Everyoneās hives still standing? Was a bit of wild storm was it?
I havenāt checked 
Apparently this car was blown away in Belmont Primary School.
It was a bit bumpy up here, and I had a lot of bees just hanging out on the hives and bearding because of the hot and humid weather, just before the wild storm hit. I hope they all went inside in time.
Thatās just down the road from meā¦
Hi guys, I am looking for some advice on wax moth. I have just inspected one of my hives and found lots of full grown wax moth and spider web looking stuff in the top broad box. It is on a flow hive with a double brood box and no super. The bottom box seems ok. Is there any way to get rid of it? Any way to save the colony?
Gāday Tony, WOW, so sorry to hear you are in similar situation as I was. Unfortunately, the moth totaled my hive 100%. Destroyed every frame, left behind nothing but webbing and dead bees, with honey dripping everywhere. I managed to salvage the brood box itāself, scraped all the mess off, sterilized the wood with 50/50 bleach and water, allowed to dry thoroughly in the sun. The frames I believe, may be used again, once I get the hang of placing wax sheet upon them. Though they also need cleaning and sterilising before I do that. Now the Flow Frames. Boy oh Boy, there are a total mess. The moth laid their eggs inside the holes of the frames by the THOUSANDS, the eggs hatched, ate the wax and then went into cocoon stage in the hole itāself. By the time I got to them, some were coming out of the cocoon, ready to wreck havoc all over again. I dunked each Frame in very hot water, killed the suckers instantly. It also killed the cocoons and the grubs as well. Now all I had to do was pick each one individualy out of the hole with a pointy nose plier. Took forever to do just one frame. Then some guy pointed out I can DISMANTLE the frames making cleaning easier. Directed me to a video on YouTube. Watched it a couple of times, thought it looked easy enough, so I tried it with one of my frames. Had no idea there was thousands of bits involved. Once you remove the wires holding them together, they just fall apart. bits everywhere. Then you gotta clean each and every one. A bloody tiresome process I can tell you. I think Iāll stick with my pointy pointy pliers and pick them out instead. So far Iāve done three frames, seven to go. The boxes have been sterilised, and repainted all good to go. By the time spring comes around, I plan to have the Flow frames ready, and go on the hunt for a Swarm to repopulated the box.Consider this though, one metre away from the infected hive, I had another that was not infected, inspected it internally, and not a sign of the wax moth. However, that hive did not swarm last spring, whereas the infected one did. It has been suggested, that this hive did not fully recover from the swarming and was overwhelmed by the moths attack. So far, no one has been able to advise me, of what to do, when we discover a wax moth infestation within our hives BEFORE it gets a hold enough, to wipe it out.
I hope some of the above proves useful to you.
Regards,
Eddy
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Or you could have frozen them.
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I just had wax moth move through a nuc I placed into an 8f super. Iāll freeze all frames for 24hr+ and then cut out any comb with moth cocoon and render that down. Iāll use the remaining frames to boost a colony when next I make up a nuc, transfer a nuc or start a super.
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i would have used a small size karcher and blasted them with water, then freeze the frames for 24 hrs
When i extract honey right after emptying the frames, the frames all go in the freezer, every single one
so if there is any eggs on the frames, freezing will kill them allā¦i have an old bunky cheap rusty nasty small freezer from the classifieds i keep just for this, bought for $20
food for thought
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I havenāt had an infestation, but have observed a few wax moth grubs and cacoons in my hive. A healthy colony generally will keep small quantities at bay.
Freezing for 24-48hr is the best method of killing the eggs from literature that Iāve read.
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So, out of curiosity, how many of the wax moth issue hives have reduced entrances?
I had a few grubs on the corflute of one hive but fingers crossed nowhere else.
At that time entrance was full. Now reduced to 10cm.
What is the connection between entrance reducers and wax moth?
As long as the bees can clean the bottom, so the moths wonāt have rubbish to lay eggs in, I donāt see any. I read somewhere that narrower entrances can be better protected against moths than taller ones.
My corflute slider sags, so there is always a gap where moths can go in from the back, and that where I find the occasional grub, on the corflute. I think I should clean it more often. Oddly enough, one of the hives is always dirtier than the other.
Hi mate, only that hives that Iāve had WM issues with have had entrances reduced, probably coincidence.
I have replaced the screened bb with a solid board as WM were always an issue and when I disassembled it I found bored cavitys all around the edges where the mesh was fastened to the edges.
I always found grubs in detrius behind the reducers when I removed them. In the current temps eggs can hatch in less than 5 days. Once they get a foot hold they can decimate a colony especially nucs. (300-600 eggs and a 4 week life cycle.)
I can see no benefits using sbb here in our area only negatives.
I havenāt had WM issues since removing reducers but admittedly the colonys are more populous now.
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SBB is screened bottom board, not solid bottom board youāre referring to?
I have original Flow hives, and the corflute leaves an open gap even in the upper slot. Thatās where I think the few moths I found gained access from.
I also have a third party screened bottom board with a slider, but the plastic is solid and more rigid, and seals better. It also has a piece of wood that seals the rear tightly. The screened bottoms are generally kept very clean by the bees when I check. Itās the sliders where they canāt access that will be dirty. I like to have a look at what sort of rubbish is making it down there - not a particularly useful info, but I get to know where the activity is in the brood box.
I get what you say about detritus behind the reducers. About two weeks ago I overhauled the hive and didnāt find a lot of gunk behind my reducers.
Still, I think what you say makes a lot of sense. Maybe Iām just lucky, or youāre unlucky, but it would be great if those that had infestations could share their setup.
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