If you have starter strips on the frames they will tend to build straighter comb - which is what I do and the bees have nice fresh clean wax they produce to breed on and fill.
Down side is that is take 6 - 8 Lbs of food/Honey to build 1 Lb of wax and therefore the need to feed the bees while they are building up the frames especially if the weather is bad.
There are pros and cons for both.
Going foundation-less is a slower build up of the hive but I believe a stronger hive and any toxins they bring with then will be sealed into the wax (theoretically).
Using Wax Foundation can also bring disease as many manufacturers buy back wax from Beeks and very little is done to it and can be contaminated.(not Proven)
It all comes down to whether you want to be a hands on or hands off Bee Keeper and how much you believe what you have read, and how big a pinch of salt goes with this knowledge.
Marty this is why we tell New Bee keepers to join a local club and why there is so much confusion about how the Bee Husbandry is executed.
By reading decent books, articles and asking questions you will become a better Bee Keeper, learn what you feel is relevant to you and your situation and perhaps understand why 10 bee keepers will tell you 12 different things.
Basically you either follow blind what you have been told or you go find your own answers either way we Hope you enjoy your bee keeping, meet people, learn something and Ultimately the Bees win!
Iām an architect, and have learned over the years that not to take criticism personally concerning things I design or do. For we all bring valuable resources/baggage with us. I try to read between the lines with many of the comments made here based on peopleās experience. As you stated below and as many others have stated with every 3 people, well be 4/5 opinions.
Many of my questions I tried to leave so open ended that it allows people to respond anyway they would like. I know darn well, by doing this it potentially allows me to get more confused. So I try to take my time understand and read and then re-ask a question so I can understand maybe why they are suggesting what they are suggesting.
Part of my problem is I donāt know all the language at this stage and may be using the wrong terms.
I will be going foundation less, there will be starter strips as provided. Ultimately I would like to get honey, but my goal is to have a strong healthy hive. I would rather have a strong healthy hive and get little to no honey then vice the versa.
Again thank you this forum has been very good for me and everyoneās comments has been very helpful
Boiled water donāt boil the syrup as is creates HMF.
Donāt use high fructose corn syrup (HFCS) because it can form hydroxymethylfurfural (HMF) not good for bees.
āā¦produced by acid-catalyzed dehydration of sugars,ā¦ Elevated concentrations of HMF in honey provide an indication of overheating,ā¦ā
āā¦ researchers have in many cases proved that the HMF is toxic to beesā
I have read through this postā¦Iām doing catch up! It seems to me that like all new beekeepersā¦you want to see what your bees are up to without disturbing them. Window on hives are good but you need a cutout which can be replaced to keep out the light. There is another way of observing your bees in the hive without too much disturbance though. If you buy some thin pvcā¦the kind you can use in a picture frameā¦cut a piece to fit the top of the broodbox. You can see through it when you lift off the roof. You donāt need to go into the hive and you can use a cloth to cover part of the plastic. I find these very useful. In winter I use a thin eke to feed a slice of fondant on top of the frames with the plastic cover on topā¦under the roof. I can check when the fondant is eaten up and ready to be replaced.
If you are at all handy with a jigsaw you could get some thin plexiglass and create your own viewing window in the brood chamber. As a previous construction/remodeling guy this seems like an easy proposition but if you arenāt so comfortable with power tools and such it might be more intimidating.
To your original question, I donāt really see any reason why you couldnāt use the Flow super as your brood chamber to start off with. It will complicate things a little bit when you go to install the Flow frames, as all of your frames will have to be disturbed and moved to the new box but that is all in all pretty minor. The boxes are the same size and dimensions so they are interchangeable in that sense.
When I do garden shows and fairs I bring my observation hive. Iāve observed that light disturbs bees equally as much as, when done properly, lifting out a frame and inspecting brood.
I would say you could have a viewing window in the top and bottom box ( @Michael_Bush what would you say) as long as itās covered all the time except when you are having a wee look.
So you would chuck your nuc in the Flow Super box (without any Flow Frames) - build it up like a brood box. And then when the Flow Frames arrive - you would put these on top in a new Super (with a window as well).
(But maybe the queen and babies donāt like light? Thatās what pops into my mind). I know normal bee hives can have observation windows, but canāt remember if any bee keepers have observation windows in the brood box?
Top bar hives often have an observation window that goes the whole length of the hive which would include the brood area. Thatās why I suggested using a jigsaw to cut the window because the old piece could be used to block the light as it is on the Flow super.
Okay, cool. Good to know. I guess itās just a matter of not leaving the window covering off for too long then.
(In the pdf I posted, it says to use the bit you cut-out as a cover - so the same idea as what you said).
Just thought the link for the modification pdf would be more easy for those not experienced in building and carpentry
The more I think about this the more I want to make a window in the side of the box similar to the Flow end with a supporting metal bar and latch cover would be the simplest covered with a piece of PolyCarb or Glass
Marty. I discern that you are located tn the North Texas area near Dallas. I am located in Denton and am a member of both the Collin County Hobby Beekeepers Association (CCHBA) and Denton County Beekeepers Association. I too am a nubee to beekeeping and have ordered my first nuc from Weavers for delivery in mid March followed by a package and queen in mid April. Iām taking John Talbertās seminar at Sabine Creek Honey Farm (sabinecreekhoneyfarm.com) next month. Iāve ordered a wood nuc to take initial delivery into and to develop a strong initial hive. In addition to my new Flowhive I will also have a 10 frame Langstrouth. I am counting on guidance from my fellow association beeks and John Talbert to guide me through the initial introduction process. Welcome to join us. Reguards Ron
will have to meet at the next meeting, I am a member of the Collin County club as well. Thinking about taking Johnās class just have not signed up yet. Meeting another guy here in Dallas maybe this weekend just south of me, between North Dallas and Central Dallas. He got his Hive body last week as well. It would be nice to attend classes with other people that are getting the same Hive settup. I did go to Houston and take the all-day seminar they had in the spring and plan on taking it again this coming spring late winter.
Hi Faroe, my observation beehive is kind of like a window into the brood. I have a perspex window that is secured with countersunk screws. Then I have a ply cover over that to give the bees darkness while closed. When I remove the ply cover, the perspex window stays in place. Science Master (Bob) was really impressed with it. Anyway hereās my video showing it.
