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Tray inspection

Tray inspection today and no signs of varorra or hive beetle :facepunch::honeybee:

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I think I can see some varroa in there. Hard to spot at that distance, and in amongst all the other debris, but I have circled some possible critters. There are some pollen mites too, but you can’t do anything about those, so don’t worry. You don’t have SHB in the UK yet, as far as I have heard. In fact I think most of Europe is free of SHB so far. :blush:

I would do a proper mite count with an alcohol wash or sugar shake if you want an accurate assessment. :wink:

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Okay. Thanks Dawn. I’ll have a bash at a sugar shake and see what turns up.

Didn’t know UK was SHB free that’s one less thing to worry about.

Having my patio extended so had to move the hive until the contractors are done.

Is moving the hive then moving back to it’s normal location within 7 days bad?

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Here is a link for some thoughts on how to do it, if you have never done one. I shake the bees onto a bent sheet of roofing flashing, which is about the size of a sheet of A3 paper with a V-shaped fold down the middle. That makes it easier to tip the bees into the measuring cup. Make sure you don’t shake the queen though!

Moving the hive depends on how far you moved it. The contractors may be bothered by lost bees unless you locked them in and moved them a couple of miles away.

If you moved them 20 or 30 feet, then you may have a number of confused bees flying around the old site. Now you have done it, I think it is just a wait and see game. When you move them back, they may be confused again, but they should find their way home. Some people like to put a potted plant or tree branch in front of the hive entrance immediately after a move to make the bees re-orientate. Chances are that you will still get some confused bees though! :blush:

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SHB now in Southern Europe. We have not in U.K. but I understand planning taking place.

Time to learn how to avoid it getting hold I think.

If you think you have varroa then get the treatment into the hive now. You could Check what the locals use. But if that’s difficult let me know by message and I will forward you the current advise and a Thornes reference number. Dont assume that any varroa mite treatment will work select what’s working in midlands and or Tamworth area. They are now resilient to some forms. My stuffs in garage so can tell tomorrow if required.

Bees are now clustered here, so i would say it’s wrong to disturb them. An insert of a pharma treatment is now the only option I think.

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Good to have local knowledge, thank you. I certainly wouldn’t disturb a cluster - not good. With that in mind, if it was my hive, I would do an accelerated mite drop count with Oxalic Acid Vapor (OAV) - very easy if you have the equipment and pretty accurate. If you can’t do a count and can’t vaporize Oxalic Acid (OA), then I might consider an Oxalic Acid trickle regardless, once the hive is broodless and clustered - very effective at that point. Many people in the UK use a warm OA trickle even as late as November, so the timing is OK.

Last I heard was they have been found in Sicily and perhaps southern Italy. Is that your understanding? I don’t think they have progressed much yet, but it is only a matter of time, just like varroa. Thirty years ago, there was hardly any varroa in the UK… :hushed:

I’ve a variety of treatments at hand. Local club in Nuneaton. Bayvarol is what I’ve been told to use this time of year.

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Mine are still out foraging and bringing in pollen by the leg fulls. Amazed thier still doing this as it’s been cold lately.

I am a Bayvarol area too. Not sure if this product outside U.K. so just incase, This is an impregnated strip and you use 4 strips per brood box or equivalent.

Apivar, if I am right, comes in a metal tray with a rip off cover. One per hive. Now considered not effective.

Many areas U.K. Pyrethroid immune.

Apiguard is the metal trays. Used this during summer as I knew I wouldn’t harvest any honey this year. Heat dependant so no point using again.