Continuing the discussion from Honey collecting in flow frame bottom reservoir:
Hi All
HELP HELP EVERYONE; tried to empty the flow frames and I found out some warms inside the Flow Frame where I insert the tube.
I havent opened the box to inspect “may be am trying to get away and I dont wanna know”
Hi Houssam,
That doesn’t sound too good…
Are you able to pop your suit on and take a couple of photos at some stage?
This might help us to identify what’s going on.
They could be bee larvae, small hive beetle larvae, wax moth grubs, or actual worms… how to address this situation will depend a bit on what you have spotted.
Hi all
Attached is a photo of the worm that I saw in the flow frame chamber where the pipe is inserted.
Your assistance is highly appreciated. If anyone has experienced what am experiencing, I would really appreciate your input on how to remedy this issue.
I have got a spare hive that is empty. I was going to transfer the bees population into the new one while give the old bee hive a thorough clean up, but my concern is that the whole swarm won’t transfer over to the bee hive even if I transfer the queen into the new hive.
Your advice is very much appreciated.
Thanks for ur feedback
Looks like wax moth issues to me. Let’s see what the experts think. 
Look like SHB larvae. There’s a thread somewhere that discusses cleaning the channel… would recommend inspecting the rest thoroughly and if you are low on bee numbers maybe consider removing the super and condensing the hive down so there’s less space to keep clean.
You can freeze the flow frames to kill eggs and larvae.
This is what I was going off of. It is difficult to see the legs in the picture shb look more plump though. (Not disagreeing. I’m just completely ignorant and trying to learn.) 
Either way, YUCK right?? Sorry this happened @helomari0413 - I think your idea to transfer the colony into a new box and thoroughly clean the Flow super is spot on. Like Alok said, once you clean the channels well - and anywhere else that could be affected - put the frames into the freezer. This way, if you missed any tiny eggs, they will be killed.
And do pop that suit on more often 
Hi Houssam,
Your photo is very helpful and clear, thanks.
That looks like wax moth larvae to me.
Here is a link to our info page on wax moth.
In terms of leaving some bees behind while transferring them, provided you ensure that the queen makes it to the new box along with as many of her minions as you can easily transfer, the rest should follow. The queen’s pheromones will attract them to the new hive.
We’d love to hear how you go - and please let us know if you need some further assistance.
Thank you all for ur contributions and I really do appreciate ur comments (especially Freebee’s). Am hoping to hear from someone who has experienced such a problem and benefit from their experience, as it seems that there are several attacking approaches to this issue.
Thank u all again
Hi all
I have few questions, When I position the new hive in the vicinity of the “Wax Moth” infested hive;
1- if the timber frames in the Brood Box are infested with Wax Moth as well (clearly I’ll have to leave them behind), would it be more difficult for the whole bees population to transfer over into the new hive??
2- how long do u think this process will take before the whole bees population has moved over completely to the new hive
3-if it appears that some timber frames in the brood box are infested with wax moth will u still recommend leaving all the Langstroth frames to be left behind?
3- how is it possible to tell that the bees population is healthy and affected by the Wax Moth
5- finally any special recommendations that you would kindly propose during this process of transferring the bees population to their new residence
What are you doing for small hive beetles and varroa?
For 1-3, you may find cocoons, webs and damaged comb on frames. If there none or not many to be seen on a frame, there could still be hundreds of eggs in empty brood cells. The least-affected frames could be reused if you freeze them for at least 24 hours. What are the frames like in your new box? Any drawn comb available or are they brand new, with just foundation or foundationless? The procedure for placing a colony into a different box doesn’t take very long, but will depend on things like how far apart the hives are, the freezing and thawing process if you’ll need to swap some frames back in because you have too many without comb to give them. Always assuming you will proceed deliberately without rushing 
Your question about bee health - wax moths fortunately don’t infect bees with any diseases as far as I know. But when their presence becomes an infestation, a bee colony could decide to abscond - which means leave to find a better home. This is similar to a swarm in that the queen will leave with some workers, but gravely different in that they leave brood behind, no workers to raise a new queen, and have to find a safe place to go at this time of year.with little time left before cold weather. They also might not have much honey left to take with them. So, even if your effort to move them isn’t quite smooth or confident, it’s the best thing to do for them!
Re question 5, have all your equipment ready and proceed as efficiently as you can.
Include food for them in the new box, whether it’s honey or 2:1 sugar water, and a small piece of pollen patty.
Close down their entrance to a small gap they can more easily defend against robbers.
Wait about 2 days and check on food, rotate back in any drawn comb frames you salvaged and froze/thawed to replace temporary combless frames. Give more sugar water or honey if it’s gone, monitor the pollen patty to ensure that bees are taking it vs not. Give the bees a chance to have it but if they don’t seem to be taking it, you should remove it so it isn’t an unguarded resource for small hive beetles.
Re Fred’s question, it would be a good idea to put a beetle trap in the new hive too. We can talk about varroa mite management once you have the bees resettled if you need some tips for that 
