Does the Flow Hive filter the honey?

Thanks Hhh, I removed a hive from a wall cavity the other day. The bees did exactly what I told the home owners they’d do. They started at the top plate, naturally with the brood first. Continued to build down, probably about 4-5 feet, there were no nogens between the studs. The final outcome was honey at the top & brood at the bottom with honey all the way down one side, the far side from the entrance. The comb at the top was dark & thick with cocoons. We got 15 kilos of honey out of it, a colony of bees & a few more lessons from the mistakes I made.

Ha ha …always something to learn. I have found my bees will store honey on the cold side of the hives…horizontally and a good arc above too. I guess poly hives are similar in insulation to a tree trunk.

I bet it is Emerald which is storing honey! Don’t forget to leave them enough to get through the winter…or put a large slab of fondant on top of the bars. Fondant not quite as good as honey to overwinter on but better than starving.

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@Horsehillhoney When I accidentally broke a whole frame of comb from my strips, I took a small piece and sat in the lounge and ate all the honey - Yes it was Emerald’s, yes it was very delish! - she has a bout 5 combs nearly full of nectar and still going strong.

Ha ha…I bet you didn’t share it with the family! I knew it would be Emerald…she comes from a great honey collecting queen line.
When you have no wiring the comb is very fragile. Have a look on utube…there are videos of how to turn a frame without breaking it…mainly on top bar hive videos. Or you can drill some holes in the sides of your frames…if they don’t have any …and string them with fishing line…much easier to do than wiring. With a 100 frames to do you will be very good at it by the end of them! I think I am going to like the plastic black frames…you can see eggs really easily. The bees don’t seem to have any problem building comb on them. I shall be glad next spring when I can take out the national frames…I won’t bother rotating them out…I will just brush off the bees and use them for a nuc.

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That’s what I have tried this year and it works very well even on a 14x12 frame

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The Govt Regs say Comb without brood in, not comb that has had brood in

“The honey should be free from mould, insects, insect debris,
brood and any other organic or inorganic substance foreign
to the composition of honey. Take care to minimise the introduction of foreign materials
into the extraction room.The honey must be filtered to
remove any foreign materials.The recommended mesh size
is 0.2 mm which will ensure that some pollen remains.
The extraction room and all equipment should be washed
thoroughly before and after extraction.”

Thanks for querying this

I just have to see now if I have the queen or queen cells. I’m not sure if they built the brood the hot way or the cold way but I’ve always found they like to go basically straight into the brood when entering the hive. Some times I found they enter one hole in the wall, negotiate a small gap between the next stud & build their nest between that stud & the one across from that instead of the easy option of between the two studs where the hole is. After seeing that I guessed they must have been making it harder for predators to get to the nest.

I have found the same…they like to go straight to the brood…not negotiate lots of comb on the way. I add comb in front of the brood when they are building the brood nest. I keep all mine as warm way too. Honey is stored above and behind the brood. In a long hive…I add a super after they have stored one comb of stores behind the brood nest…then they are happy to move up into the supers. After the supers are removed…any honey stored will be in the brood box…so I start to add more comb behind the brood nest as build up for winter. With a nuc in a long hive…I don’t add a super and all stores are left with the brood.

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In my haste I must have killed the queen, they are making some beautiful queen cells. It wasn’t an ideal day to do it, it was cold. I didn’t want to expose the brood to too much cold air otherwise I could have tied a frame of brood to the exposed bees hoping the queen would climb onto it while we had a cuppa.

Oh no!..what a pity. At least they can make another…but it will slow them up a bit.

No problems, there’s queen cells on 2 frames so I’m going to use one of the frames to use in a split in the coming days & I’ll replace that frame with 2 frames of mainly sealed/hatching brood.

Hi Valli I use a company called patterson glass http://www.jarsandbottles.co.uk/ they have a nice range to choose from and I have never had any issues with them for over 5 years!! Hope that helps

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C Wynne Jones are much better value.
Anyway…you don’t need fancy glass for honey.
They do a nice 12oz Pandora and a wide choice of lid colours so that you can coordinate with your label
Beware hex jars unless you like fiddling about getting air bubbles out of corners :smile: