I know weâve had some wet weather the last few days and storms to boot where I live but that comment about sustained wet periods made me laugh⌠Not a problem we encounter often here in the Perth area.
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Hey @JeffH, how long have you used the copper naphthenate on your hives?
Would that be the equivalent of using treated lumber to build a hive?
Here in the US it sold under a couple different brands to be used for below ground contact. Iâve used in the past for cut ends of bands, joists, and decking. The treated materials here now is mostly a salt brined treatment (lightly green) with exception to ground contact lumber/timbers which is still pressure treated in the C.N. (darker green).
Hi Tim, Iâve been using it for close to 20 years. It took me a few years of pine boxes rotting (mainly in the top & bottom corners) before I went to the extra trouble of using it. None of the boxes I treated have rotted.
I mix the C.N. with turps (about 80% turps), then soak the timber in that for 6-8 hours, so that the turps draws the C.N. into the timber. Then I let it drip onto untreated timber before letting it thoroughly dry in the open air, before painting.
I would never paint pine bee boxes unless they were treated first.
cheers
Thank for tip @JeffH. Iâm ready to paint my Araucaria FH2âs this weekend. Instead, I may get some to put on, then paint them the following weekend. We get our Nucâs on/around Apr 10th.
So you only coat the outside with the CN, is that right?
I soak the whole box in the C.N., inside & out. Then I paint inside & out.
I have some treated boxes where I didnât paint the inside. I didnât worry because they had been airing for 12 months before I painted them. No ill effects.
You could paint your timber all over with a good coat of C.N. with turps before assembling, paying particular attention to the joints. That would be ready to paint in a few days. Definitely paint inside & out.
cheers
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@JeffH 's advice about using CN is right, the first time I came across it was helping a commercial bee keeper out with making a few hundred boxes and he did as Jeff has advised. Those boxes were given a week drying time before painting.
The important thing is to give plenty of drying time and paint the hive inside and the edges as well as the outside.
Cheers
Thanks @Peter48 and @JeffH. I never wouldâve considered using it. I certainly get the drying time when using the product.
CN is only toxic when the bees are exposed to it, in a bee hive preservative situation it is encapsulated by the paint. But it did cause me concern when I first saw it and the guy spent the time explaining it to me it made sense. He had been treating his boxes for decades back then. The main thing is the 80% turps so that it soaks into the wood and drying time.
It is very cost effective as the hive will be extended and well worth the effort.
Cheers
@Peter48. After reading yours and @JeffH threads. I did a search and came across a study published in 1984 about using preservatives on the hive parts. It references a study from New Zealand, and here in the US. Iâll post the link, itâs a pretty good read. Gives you an idea of how to use and what not to use. Also the effects on Bee Mortality and residuals of products remaining in the Honey and Beeswax.
An interesting read till they started talking about CN in the atmosphere from metal smelters it killed my interest in reading further. Yes, CN is a dangerous product, the guy I helped used plastic suits, gloves and boots in treating the boxes. Once it is dried and sealed in by painting
If you donât want to use there is a product called âBond-Creteâ which you can mix with water and it dries leaving a very durable film on the wood. Never used it in a bee hive but at my local menâs shed it is used as a wood sealer on out door furniture and as with CN once it has dried I canât see an issue with it sealed in by paint. But of course that is for you to decide.
Cheers Tim
Youâre right Peter. Interesting read to me. Out of all the tested products and the control the CN was 2nd least in mortality, honey, and beeswax effects in the 1st and 2nd year test results. It appears that since that 1984 study a lot of commercial beeks use this or some other product. Also read where a lot of folks in Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi use the CN as well due to extreme humidity levels.
Again itâs one of the choices everyone would make for their needs. While the thought of preserving the initial investment is def appealing. I am pretty sure I will just fill any gaps I have with wood glue and sawdust for filler sand flush and paint with a quality Latex+Primer paint. At least 3 maybe 4 coats. Do like the idea JeffH had about waxing the tops and bottoms to aide in preventing sticking⌠Outside of propolis anywayâŚlol
It wasnât me that said that, it was someone else.
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Hello! Does anyone know what stain, varnish or paint they use on the hives in the marketing videos? Theyâre a beautiful finish and the blue and red are perfect colors. I want mine to look as good as those do.
For the cedar we typically use linseed oil or a decking oil.
For the Araucaria, we always paint it with an eco outdoor paint.
For both, we always paint the roof with an eco outdoor paint.
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Can you tell me the name of the eco outdoor paint?
We use Ecocolour but I recommend talking to your local paint and hardware stores for their specific range on offer.
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I love the look too, some of the staff here have done a beautiful job painting their hives too 
but donât forget to check with your local paint or hardware store that your choice of paints or timber treatments will provide adequate protection against the elements as it can vary quite a lot. This is especially important if you live in a very wet or humid area or have other harsh conditions to contend with. Keep an eye on how your hive is weathering and repaint/retreat if needed to ensure that it stays in top condition (yell out if you need some tips on repainting while the bees are in residence!)
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@Dawn_SD oh no, are you serious? Does the BEHR ULTRA Exterior Semi-Gloss Enamel paint and primer in one really have to dry for a month?? I just bought this to paint my second deep (regular Langstroth) and will need it in maybe 2-3 weeks. Could it safely dry/air out in 2 weeks and be useable?
From the Behr data sheet:
Since youâre only painting the outside and it wonât be directly adjacent to the entrance (itâs the second deep for that colony?) I bet youâll be ok in 3 weeks, especially if you leave it outdoors in the sun to cure. But not sure that waiting an extra week will matter so much.
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