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Painting/Protecting the bee hives

Just FYI for those in Australia looking for Tung oil. There are a few products at Masters Home Improvement Store under the brand name Organoil that seem to be decent quality. I tried the Organoil Garden Furniture Oil; made from Tung Oil, Eucalyptus Oil, and Beeswax and was pleased by the initial testing.

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Martin, did u thin this Masters Tung oil down or apply straight from the can to the box, cheers

@MartinB why Eucalyptus? I did hear it shoo’s off wasps

How much? I buy Euc by the litre - make my own Matha Gardener’s - we don’t get that here

It is my understanding that the Eucalyptus Oil is used as a mould and mildew preventer. I am not sure how much they use, but it does smell nice and strong. I would not overkill on that stuff if mixing yourself.

I used full strength and it worked out well for me.

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I have smelt Eucalyptus oil in Saunas - perhaps that is the reason

Apparently you can use Oil of Cloves, but if you can’t get hold of it, try tea-tree oil or eucalyptus oil according to some web sites

"Essential oils play an important natural, non-toxic role in managing and eliminating mold. Most essential oils do have antifungal, antimicrobial, antiviral properties. This is why they are so important to the plants from which they are derived. They keep them healthy and safe! Tea Tree oil is the oil of choice for me. Adding 2 teaspoons to a spray bottle of distilled water can be used to clean mold on any surface. The odor is not the most pleasurable but it clears after a few hours. I have used this to clean a closet from top to bottom in an old home and it lived up to its promise. Other oils used more commonly to deal with mold are Lemon, Clove, Egyptian Geranium, Eucalyptus, Rosemary, Cinnamon. I am sure there are others also but these are the more commonly acquired oils. Grapeseed Extract is also an alternative to tea tree oil and is supposedly just as effective. It smells better also. "

i will be dipping mine in hot wax.

Is there a method for dipping that doesn’t require an enormous custom made tank to hold the wax? I haven’t had much luck finding anything that describes how to do a dip on a small scale. Everything I see is for guys dipping like a hundred boxes.

Can the pieces be dipped before assembly?

  1. Firstly that’s a LoT of wax
  2. You need protection
  3. You need a big Industrial saucepan or drum
  4. You need a thermostatic heat source
  5. You need somewhere they can dry out doors so you don’t inhale fumes
  6. Is is really worth it unless you are commercial?
  7. If your commercial you probably need to do it this way

If it could be done while disassembled it could be done shallow in batches so it wouldn’t really be that much.

This might not be the right option I just like the idea of it and the look it gives the natural wood, so I’m exploring the option until I find it to be completely prohibitive. I have access to heat sources outside and places to dry outside as well, so that isn’t an issue. I would need to locate a large commercial roasting pan or something similar but those can be gotten cheap from used restaurant supply houses.

Right now I don’t think I want to do this commercially but it runs in the family my uncle and my dad both did it for years, so I am not opposed to considering it professionally. I’d prefer to use best practices even if they require a little more work on my part.

to hot dip successfully

  1. You need a tank 1/2 as deep again as the items being dipped
  2. The items need to stay in the wax until all the air has come out
  3. The air bubbles will make the wax “boil” hence the need for depth - bit like frying and water gets in
  4. Where will you get that much wax from that is not contaminated and also they often use a mix with paraffin (Kerosene) in it
  5. You need to know the flash point (combustion level) of your wax - the point at which the was will self combust just like a deep fryer

All the videos I have watched and articles I have read recommend using paraffin with resin added for adhesion.

Really need expert advice if you do this

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Couldn’t agree more but I’ll probably be on my own to experiment if I decide to go this way. I don’t know anyone locally who has gone this route. The guys in the club are old school “paint it white” fellas.

You cold look for a commercial outfit and ask what they charge?

You ont need a big tank. im only doing 3 hives so i bought a pan that is 24 x 18 x 4 deep. and i will assemble my boxes and dip one side at a time. flipping each side every 10 mins. takes longer but wax investment is doable.

a little more time will be invested but i think its worth it especially since dipped hives should give you at least 10 years service over going any other type of finish. some people get even more… the only other alternative i know about is epifanes varnish diluted 50% with thinner. BUT every other year you need to sand and reapply.

some people recommend tung oil or linseed but in my experience oils are just food for mold and do little in the long term protection of wood… if you must use an oil i would do a mix of 33% tung 33% epifanes spar varnish and 33% thinner. this will absorb better into the wood and give you a coat of uv protection. AGAIN you will probably end up having to sand and refinish every 1-2 years.

I personally think cooking the woodenware in wax is the best method the wax is absorbed into the wood 100% penetration. you dont get the uv protection of the spar varnish so the cedar will silver with age but the interior of the wood will not rot. i have seen wax dipped hives 3 years in that still bead water and only have sightly silvered

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see my reply below regarding wax dip.

the pieces can be dipped before assembly but after the wax dip wood glue will not work. i like to assemble first with glue and hardware then wax dip. amazingly the glue holds up to the wax and heat. i just let the glue dry a day before dipping.

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any propane turkey fryer will work or i have a 2 burrner propane stove that the pan fits on perfectly. heat to 300 degrees which is well below the flash point of paraffin wax.

as you lower the parts into the wax just be careful of the wax becasue it will foam as it cooks the wood but not much.

@fivekai
Do you know the flash point lowers the more you heat an Oil or Wax
Do you Know the signs of Flash point
Have you ever used a commercial deep fryer?
You really need to speak to someone and see this done before you attempt it I can’t stress this enough!!!

Have you ever seen these types of Burns
Have you seen 300° F burns - a really nasty 2nd-3rd degree burn and months of healing

This is not a job to be taken on lightly or indoors

I had 1st - 2nd degree burns at work as an Apprentice - with boiling water - 2 months and much pain to heal and it was only Water at about 100°C - I still suffer pains in the skin of my feet and they are disfigured for life - I was 20 and Not even my fault

I work in a commercial kitchen, I have had my fair share of pretty good burns. 300 degree wax would be a vacation from 375 degree fryer oil…

Adam have you seen serious Fat burns?
They used to show us the pictures of a guy who slipped and his arm went into the deep fat fryer that was cooling. The damage made the arm unrecognisable,

I know the scalds to my feet pained me for years, I cannot begin to imagine the pain from hot Oil Wax that will not wash off and adheres to skin and melts it