If you do that, then lever up, it should break any burr comb on the bottom. Any burr comb on the sides should be relatively ease to break.
Keep in mind that a Flow frame full of honey is 4kg if not more, so there will be a fair bit of resistance from the weight alone.
Fred where do you find those videos? They are a good resource but never seem to find any when I need them? Are they for paying members or something?
Hiya Z, I found this when I searched for ‘video series’ -
@Humpty hang in there, it’s a lot to get familiar with but it’s worth it 
Hi @zzz and @Eva, I also was wondering where those videos are. That link was only for one video. I think this is the whole lot:
WARNING: You may go there to watch one video, and end up watching 10.
I find Cedar’s voice very calming… the guy is humble and passionate and I enjoy watching him explaining things.
The internet… it’s a hard game to clock.
But seriously… I’ve just come across them when I was learning about flow.
The FAQ section is also helpful with links to videos also:
https://www.honeyflow.com/faqs/
G’day humpty
Looks like you have all the info you need to get those flow frames out now. I’d only add that since you are new, you’d benefit immensely from having an experienced beekeeper take you through a hive inspection, just watching them work will teach you a lot.
Yes that’s what I did but there is limit on how much I can lever up. It still felt stuck. Maybe I was too gentle and afraid to squash any bees.
Yeah I did that in my beekeeping courses. I’m happy to learn on my own from now on, I think I got the basics and feel confident I know what I’m doing when inspecting.
This is the only issue so far, removing the flow frames. If I encounter any other problems with inspections, I’ll ask right away.
Sometimes you learn a lot more if you just do what you have to do, rather than rely on others spoon feeding you all the time. At least that’s how I feel I learn most.
it’s usually the first frame that’s hard to get out. I find after levering the front as described above, sometime I resort to using my hive tool under the wires and levering it up that way.
Once the first one is out, the rest is easier. You can cut and shift the flow frames sideways like traditional frames
Nothing like jumping in the deep end and learning how to swim. Looks like you’re floating already. Keep it up. 
Really? Pull the the stuck frames by the cross wires, using the hivetool? Never crossed my mind. Thanks for the tip.
I know they are stainless steel, but will they take the repeated strain? Are they designed for this purpose? I don’t want to risk damaging them, I bet it will a hell of a mess if the frames came apart inside the hive, if the wire breaks?
To be clear, I did take a couple of courses over the past years, so I’m not really doing the inspections blindly. I hope I didn’t come across as cocky, because I’m not, especially with bees.
If @fffffred recommend that it’s probably right, but personally I won’t risk it. The wires look like they are 0.5mm with a breaking point of around 18Kg, so in theory they’re strong enough, but their connector might be the weak point, or even the small plastic nooks on the frame itself. You also do not want to loosen the tension of the frames as they may leak. It would be great if someone from Flow can advise…
Break the super off with a hive tool and a wedge ala OT
…then turn the super upside down and lift the box off the frames, ala M Bush.
thanks very helpful, I’ll do that next time.
Just to be clear, that advice was probably (and I hope) a joke. No sign it was meant to be sarcastic though.
It can be confusing for a new beekeeper to differentiate between genuine advice, and someone taking the piss. I have nothing against the latter as long as it is obvious.
I never came across anyone seriously flipping a Flow super upside down to take off the box to inspect.
Actually it is good advice from Skeggley as a last resort to get the Flow Frames out of a super, or any frames from a box. A couple of years ago I took over caring for a hive that hadn’t even had the roof lifted off for about 5 years, I had to use a shovel to get the roof off and for the first time I had to resort to cutting all the frames from the boxes with them upside down with the frames still together as a single unit then work on separating each frame. It was a very neglected hive and I did that as a last option after trying every other idea I had. I was lucky to have saved enough frames in tact along with the queen and brood that it survived and is now a great producer and a calm colony.
That was more to get the hive into some sort of order than just an inspection.
Cheers
Yeah Pete, thanks for putting some perspective. The hive you dealt with was abandoned for 5 years so you had to take drastic action. Fair enough.
Here we have a new beekeeper, saying that he put on his super only 5 weeks ago, and only missed an inspection for a week because of bad weather. So why a sledge hammer approach as suggested (not by you) and the mess it creates with leaking honey etc??? I don’t think it is reasonable.
It is obvious to me that all @Humpty needs is to practice and hone his skills. Why put new beekeepers off with such drastic advice of hammering a super off with a wedge and flipping it upside down ? I remember it took me two seasons to find a good way to take the Flow frames out confidently from the super for inspection.
We all were newbies one day and I don’t think that anyone here can honestly say they never had any issue taking out the Flow frames for the first few times.
Anyway, there a lot of smarter people than me here, so I might leave it to them to give any future advice.
Thanks all for the guidance. Yeah I thought flipping the super with uncapped honey in the flow frames was smartarse advice, there’s one in every forum.
However if that’s what I have to do if I miss a week, then the guys at the beekeeping course were right in saying that the flow hive is a bad design, and I might be better off selling it and get a standard super.
Cheers.
It really isn’t, but it is an advanced manoeuvre. It works, but it is drastic, and the bees won’t like it much. If you are really stuck though, it is a good method. Honest.
And @Zzz It is all about feeling confident in how much leverage can safely be applied to get a Flow Frame to come free, and I found even with well propolized in frames they will come free without going like a bull in a china shop.
Regardless of it being a Flow Frame or a ‘conventional’ frame that the bees have used propolis and wax in the bees creative ways you will still need gentle pressure to get them free. I haven’t had a Flow Frame fracture or fail in any way.
I have had 4 Flow Hives for four years, the first year they were as bought but since then I have adapted them for my climate.
Like @Humpty I was nervous about too much leverage being applied to free the Flow Frames but I have no issues using the hive tool as Humpty has been advised and not had a frame refuse to come free or had one damaged. Bees will propolize and wax in a standard frame, it is something bees do.
I recently heard a guy running a bee course saying that bees will not store honey in a plastic Flow Frame and went on about it being badly designed. At the end and it was question time I asked if he had any REAL experience with Flow Hives, eventually he admitted he wasn’t even interested in having looked in a Flow Hive. This from a guy who charges $100 a head for a 5 hour talk about misinformation – he probably attends the ‘flat world meetings’ to. 
Cheers
Totally agree with Peter. It is “all about feeling confident in how much leverage can safely be applied to get a Flow Frame to come free”
I also agree with this, and Z makes valid points:
With a new hive, and a new beekeeper I very much doubt such drastic action is necessary, and it can only deter a new beekeeper.
@Humpty, don’t give up on the Flow hive just yet. @fffffred above offered you assistance. I think he is in the south. I can also offer you help getting the Flow frames out if you’re close by. I’m in the Mundaring area, send me or Fred a PM, and we’ll get it sorted out for you and I’m sure flipping the super won’t be necessary.
I think that what he really needs is to see someone remove a frame and then do it himself with a little verbal support. A good dose of confidence is what is needed. Good of you and @fffffred to have offered help if he isn’t too far away from you. I hope he accepts.
Cheers
Well because it was asked how to get a super stuck to the brood box, stuck frames out of a super. Flipping the super or brood box for that matter is not my method @Michael_Bush’s also backed up by experienced beeks in following comments.
As for the ‘smart arse’ comment @Humpty, no, not me, I’m only trying to help but take it as you like, you asked for help.
Is it necessary on a 5 week old super, probably not but if you can’t get them out how everyone else had suggested…