I looked it up because Stubsy is always on about them.
I’m Sort of thinking this way only I wanted to use Lang Brood boxes.
I think this will work with Flows, see what you think…
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Not just the Honey gathering but the use of all the same size boxes and the no QX, extending the brood area and not put the Flows on until June
Dex it was interesting, some food for thought, some of the things he does are quite good.
I like to gather information and new ideas.
end of…
@Valli, @DextersShed, I don’t know where that person gets the idea that a standard Langstroth hive consists of deep boxes for brood & ideals, mediums or WSPs for honey. You can even get half depth frames (grandad frames). I use all deep boxes. Deep boxes for brood as well as honey, that’s all I’ve ever used. That’s how I’m able to work & manage my hives with the success I enjoy. I would never consider any other configuration. I think any configuration of Langstroth frames can be used. The only thing that seems to be standard is the length of the frames. Michael Bush makes, what I believe is a valid point. He recommends keeping all your frames the same size. That way you can do whatever you want, move honey frames to the brood & vice versa. You can add brood from a strong hive into the honey super of a weaker hive. This is good beekeeping.
What I was thinking is all Langstroth Deeps for Brood and Super - Same as the Flow - It is easy to switch from Lang to Lang doesn’t matter if they are 8 or 10 they are still lang.
Ant there is no not to put a lang between the other 2 to build the hive up in Spring - More bees more Space - I’ll quote you here Stubsy [Quote] " A box, is a box, is a box".[/Quote]
So nothing stopping me from doing double brood and double Deep Supers really
I just liked the way he did things as well.
It doesn’t hurt to look at other methods, you never know when you will strike a good Idea the will work laterally
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@DextersShed I’m working 60 hives, at my age I have to find easier ways. I check each frame before taking them to extract, so I have to take them out 1 at a time. I generally wont lift a super with any more than 5 or 6 full frames of honey. That brings it back to the same weight as a full medium. When inspecting the brood, unless I can see the super is fairly light, I’ll take 3 or 4 frames out of the center before lifting it off. Then I have a stool nearby at the same level to rest it on to save putting it on the ground or lifting it up to rest on another hive.
Just to clarify for the newBees @JeffH.
If you take out frames because the box is too heavy to lift, make sure all the remaining frames are against each other and against the side facing you when you lift - Otherwise you will “Roll the Bees” and you don’t want fatalities unnecessarily, especially Queenie
Thanks @Valli, I added a bit more to my previous post. Yes that’s always good advice in any beekeeping chore. That’s one of the reasons I love queen excluders, at least while working above it, you know you can’t harm her. Another good reason not to kill bees is if your in a shb area, if you leave dead bees wedged between frames etc, shb will definitely lay eggs in them. Plus: Importantly, we love them & just don’t want to kill them:)
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During the summer my Dad fishes the girls out of the pool ; -)
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