Super Lifter: brass latches interfere with the roof when no super is used

Equipment
1

Hi, I used my Super Lifter today and it was great! But I also installed the brass latches and had some trouble with the roof.

I’m in Canberra, and beekeepers here seem to use two brood boxes and remove the super for our cold winters. The brass latches are designed to be placed between the top-most and second boxes and are used to securely hold these two boxes together when they’re tilted with the Super Lifter.

If I have the two brood boxes + the super, the latches are fine. My issue is that once the super is removed overwinter, the roof moves down one box. When only the brood boxes are used without a super installed, the roof can’t be placed directly on top of the brood box without the latches interfering with the roof. So, I’ve had to remove the latches along with the super to replace the roof.

One solution might be to cut the roof to fit around the latches. That also means the brass roof stays will no longer be there, so perhaps something will be needed for the latches to attach to the roof in their place.

2

I would suggest to not use the latches. The only thing that needs tying down is the roof, on account that the bees don’t propolize it down because of the crown board sitting under it. The crown board gets propolized, the same as the boxes.

I never tie anything down. I don’t use crown boards, only hive mats that don’t sit on the edges of the boxes, which allows the bees to propolize the roof to the supers.

3

But if I’m inspecting the top brood box, I’ll be breaking the propolis between that box and the super?

4

You do break the seal, however I’ve found that it reseals once you replace the boxes. In nearly 38 years I’ve never had severe wind blow roofs off, or separate boxes.

5

But with the Super Lifter tilting the top brood box with the super almost 90 degrees, I can’t see how it would hold without latches.

6

Yeah, well that’s a different story. If using a hive lifter, you’ll probably need to latch them together to stop them from separating.

7

Yes, that’s what I was thinking. But then overwinter, you can’t use the flow hive roof on the brood box without removing those latches.

8

I had a similar problem so I sourced some longer bars (loop one end, threaded the other) from Bunnies so I could move the latches down below possible roof height and still reach.

I did raise this problem with the Flow people via email and they got back to me promptly. So they are aware but don’t see it as a major worry yet. Not many have complained.

1 Like
9

Oh, that’s genius, and so simple!

10

I’m having a similar issue with the latches and roof.

Do you think cutting a slot out of the roof is the best option with the brass latches?

11

Not if you intend to put the latches in the middle of the box as that is the location of the locking screw for the roof.

12

Do you know the thread size? I need to order a couple because of the same issue with the roof.

Thank you

13

I don’t remember exactly. My hardware store has a sizing apparatus that I used the supplied bolt to check. Sorry I can’tbe more helpful.

14

I found that if I kept the edge of the latch 19mm down from the top edge of the box it didn’t interfere and allowed for any combination

2 Likes
15

Or, get a standard outer cover/lid to replace the Flow roof for winter. Then you can put a brick on it.

1 Like
16

I know I’m late to this thread, but I’m actually trying to make my own threaded latches that are longer. I put the roof on and then install the lower latch. The issue is the throw is too short, even if you put the upper portion at the very bottom of the top box. The threaded throw is only 2.5in long and about 6 inches total with the triangle bends. I’m going to try an 8 - 10 in bar which should add about 2-4in of length to compensate for the lower install position. If it works out, I will send to Flow for their consideration and adjustment. Only one I won’t do this to is the base to first brood box since you will never put the roof on the base.