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Flow 7 Frame Super with Standard Roof


#1

Has anyone modified their roof or used any other methods to get a standard roof to fit on top of a 7 frame flow super? Right now mine hit the knobs holding the top and sit on an angle. Was thinking of taking a table saw to it, but wanted to see if there were any other less drastic means folks have used.


#2

Are you referring to a telescopic lid Larry? I use a lid that is called a “migratory lid” here in Australia, there is no overlap and then I build a simple roof to go on top for extra protection against the hot sun here.


#3

Yes, the migratory lid fits fine. No need for sun protection where I am but 2 bricks mandatory on top here.


#4

I like this inner cover, comes in 8 and 10-frame version:

It lifts up the telescoping roof, clear of the knobs, and gives an upper entrance too, which can help increase your yield during a strong flow. If you don’t want the upper entrance, just block it off with some shims. I use it with the deep side up and the center hole blocked off, otherwise you get crazy comb above the frames. :blush:


#5

How about take a large drill bit and notch the area where the knobs are. I’m not sure what kind of gap your experiencing but that might be enough and faster and easier then taking it to a tablesaw


#6

Thanks for the ideas!


#7

Hey all, figured I’d let you know what I did. I made a small box out of 1x3" pine (same dimensions as the super) and put it on top of the inner cover. I figure I can use the same box in the winter for mountain camp feeding the bees as well. The telescoping roof nearly covers it. The side of the inner cover is exposed, but don’t think that will be a big deal since it’ll only happen when I have the super on. I figured it would work since the peaked flow roof almost does the same thing. Anyway thanks again.


#8

Sounds perfect. I would do that if I was tooled up for woodworking, but as I am not, I paid Brushy Mountain instead. :smile: