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Time for a second brood box?

The point has been made. Let’s get back on topic.

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I understand that you are too time poor to type the message & correct the spelling etc. It seems that none of us were too time poor to give you well thought out answers, typed, spell checked & based on many combined decades of experience.

I hope you are not too time poor to give your bees the attention they need.

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I grew up with guilt trips and know all about them and will keep them from happening again

Most of us know exactly how to spell but we miss the keys or as I do quite often miss my brain. And sometymes I just loove to see funny speelt wurds. I know what the words are and reminds me I am a human and not a machine.

Wrong terms however can lead to misinterpretation.:upside_down_face::smile::stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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Can anyone now offer Matt any further tips in response to these questions?:

Besides that I need to be able to identify the best kind of frame to move up in the top I would think so anyways( worker bee comb) right?

I wouldn’t think I’d want to move a frame that has nothing but drone comb up there and multiply my already problem with having too many drones correct?

I’m not sure but the original five frames that I got with my NUC I would think two of those would be the best and most established and probably not full of drone brood that I should move up into my second brood box now that it’s added?

On a side note of that another thing that I’ve been dealing with is small Hive beetles that I just put 2 beetle blasters with oil on top of my first Brood box frames this morning, so when I put the second box on this afternoon I just left them and added two more in the upper box so when I go back in and pull two of my good frames up to the upper box I will remove those 2 lower beetle blaster strips and just leave the uppermost 2 correct?(I find this to be a little confusing because some people talk like the bees Chase small Hive beetles down through their wire mesh in base and into their oil or d e pan, and other say the bees chase them up so that’s why you want the beetle blaster in the uppermost part?)
So do they bees chase them up or down?
I know there’s a lot here but I appreciate all your guys’s insight, thanks Matt

Thanks all :slightly_smiling_face:

I’m a new at this, but I wish I had put at least one frame of brood in my upper brood box when I added it. I didn’t, and now it’s full of honey. I probably wouldn’t move the drone comb up, but would cut the drones out of the frame and pick a different frame. That’s just me though, and I’m new, so YMMV.

As far as the beetle traps, the bees chase SHB into every nook and cranny the beetles can get into but the bees can’t. I have two beetle blasters in each box, so six total traps in two deeps and one medium super. If I had a tray in the bottom board that would hold oil, I’d pour some in there too. Pretty sure the beetles scatter in all directions, and I’m all about taking every opportunity to catch them.

Edited because after updating my phone, my keyboard no longer understands my typing. And autocorrect hates me.

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Good on you Julie, great to read you giving good advice to Matt. It won’t be long till I can quiz you on any new issue I need advice about.:smiley:
Cheers Peter

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@Hunt4honey I’m thinking you really desperately need a mentor or finding a local bee group. As much as I am trying to explain what you need to do I am feeling that you might not be understanding my advice.
Cheers Peter

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I agree with @Peter48, @Hunt4honey really needs to acquire a local mentor. He also needs a little spare time in order to read & comprehend the advice that has been given before he gets inundated with more. You being from the flow team, do you have any advice you could offer?

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I moved to frames of mostly worker brood up and staggered them in my upper new brood box…

As I’m learning more looking at where the drone cells were it didn’t make any sense to cut them out just yet because the frame is not completely filled out and there’s a lot of worker cells below it so if I cut the upper part out of drones the worker cells would all have nothing to hang by…

Here’s some pictures of this afternoon and I’m going to leave them alone now for at least a week, I also checked my beetle blaster traps with zero small Hive beetles in any four of them and none on the bottom board today!!!
I’m hoping my efforts have put them in check. (Time will tell)

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I don’t worry so much about drone brood as some. When it emerges I move it into an upper super and the bees fill it with honey and I just do a crush and strain extraction. Seems a shame to waste the comb…

Cheers
Rob.

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Above a queen excluder, right? Some people run hives without queen excluders, so I just wanted to clarify… :wink:

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Hi Jeff,

I was just trying to steer the conversation back to topic.

I have only been involved with beekeeping for a couple of years so am still a bit green myself!

There are far more experienced voices on this forum.

I really agree with you about getting a mentor (in my view almost every beekeeper could benefit from one - if only to bounce ideas off!) - they will definitely be best positioned to offer regionally specific suggestions.

Thanks for your engagement,
Free

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Dawn,

As you would know If using a QE it has to be done after the drones emerge otherwise they will be trapped in the super. I don’t use excluders much and generally find a burst if drone brood in spring then they are content to use it for honey if its moved up.

Cheers
Rob.

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Unless you have a hive with an upper entrance, like me… :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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It’s scents. Not cents. Just kidding.

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Well I do live in Kentucky… so the goal is to bathe once a month whether I need it or not so scent might be correct. Lol
Welcome to the forum!!

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question related to this topic. when it comes time for me to add a second brood box.

which order should i be adding the new box? I’ve seen people adding them on top of the super, under the original brood, and on top of the original brood but under the super

Both ways are correct and fine. If the hive is not very strong, I prefer to add the new brood box below the existing one. That is because heat rises, and it is less work for the bees to heat the box if it stays just under the inner cover.

However, if the hive is strong and there is a good nectar flow, I would add the second deep on top of the first. The reasons are that it is a lot easier not to lift a full brood box, and if you put the second box on top, you are likely to get a nice honey arc at the top of the second box. When you later put a queen excluder and a super on top, the honey arc will help to keep the queen in the lower two brood boxes. :blush:

If you add an extra box above a honey super then chances are the added box will become a honey super when the frames are drawn out.
There is reasons for and against having a double brood box in a hive and that is a choice that local bee keepers advice is best to follow. I previously lived in a colder climate where double brood boxes was the way to go in hive management. Then when I moved to a sub-tropical climate I had to rethink a lot of my bee keeping and now use a single brood box set up, and as before I use a metal QX, that works for me and my climate.
When I used to add a second brood box to a building up split I fitted the new brood box of foundation at the bottom having moved a few frames of brood into the centre of the new box. In the upper brood box I added new frames of foundation wired frames to the outer positions that were drown out to be used for stores or to make more brood area.
Cheers Ryan.