First of all, Shaki, I want to say that you seem like someone with great beekeeping potential and Iâm glad youâre already talking about ânext yearâ 
. So please donât feel bad about how things are unfolding - bees have their own plans and remedies for situations that take us a long time to understand. The best beeks learn how to work with what the bees want and need, and you sound like someone willing to do that. You just need more time and will really benefit from taking an in person class where you can join in on live inspections. Please also stay active on this forum so you get to know the various tweaks required for successful Flow hive management. Not to mention tons of deep beekeeping wisdom from the many experienced beeks here, as well as encouragement!
Iâm going to paste items from your post to try to organize my responses for you:
Colonies reduce in size in regions with a periodic nectar dearth. Here in PA, they start winding down in August/Sept ahead of cold fall and winter weather when thereâs no more nectar or pollen. That may be the case where you are, but beeks in your area will know best.
Colonies reduce in size when they swarm too. A swarm contains about half the population and half the honey stores, but there is meant to be enough honey, brood and nurse bees plus one or more viable queen cells or an emerged queen to keep going. Swarming is a normal reproductive activity that happens as nectar begins to be most abundant - springtime through early summer. It can happen in late summer or fall but much more rarely. Absconding is another way bees leave a hive en masse. That happens because they are fleeing adverse hive conditions, and will include the whole colony.
When they swarm, they are simultaneously making a plan for where to go next and have several choices already. A marvelous process I encourage you to read more about! When they abscond, itâs more of an emergency.
One thing that would help me understand whatâs going on with your colony is what you mean by âqueen capsâ. There are queen cups, which are chickpea-sized inverted cup structures that form the base of a potential queen cell, but the bees donât always move forward with building. Hence they are sometimes also called âplay cupsâ. Then there are actual queen cells, which are much more extended or already formed into 1â or slightly longer vertical cells inside of which is a larva or pupa becoming a queen bee. A cap refers to the lid workers make to cover the opening of a cell at the end of the larval stage. So given those descriptions, what do you think fits what you saw?
Another question best answered by locals. One thing to keep in mind is that flowers donât necessarily have nectar in them. Some just donât provide much, and none can if thereâs been no rain for awhile.
Definitely do not do this. It can encourage robbing from other nearby colonies and even from other pollinators that could compete with and kill your bees. Open feeding is always risky for this reason, but especially in fall when nectar is scarce. If your colony stays put and itâs best to start feeding (probably), then use an in-hive method like a frame feeder or baggie and fill it with 2:1 sugar to water ratio so itâs easier for the bees to cure it in cooler weather. Lots more info to guide you on feeding is here on the forum if you search it.
Iâve never heard of using candy, just essential oils to repel pests. Iâd worry about ants coming for the candy.
Varroa mites are endemic, and you will not likely be able to see them even when they are there, wedged between body segments and under wings, on larvae etc. Your colony may have been very healthy and then rapidly declined due the weakness and diseases caused by mites. Please read up on varroa mite management and the treatment choices. I use oxalic acid-soaked sponges in early spring and then monitor periodically thru the season in case I need to supplement with a different treatment like Apivar in the fall. Rarely have I needed to do that, because the sponge method ensures the treatment is continuously distributed as the workers chew and remove the sponge all season. Very effective and non-toxic.
Iâm curious - why do you think it needs to be cleaned? What Iâm wondering is if youâre seeing any slimy residue on the combs or other surfaces that would indicate SHB infestation. If not, then all you need to do is freeze the frames for 24-48 hours with the comb in them to kill off any pest eggs. Then store them wrapped in burlap or closed in a plastic tub to keep out moths and mice. Having drawn comb is a real head start for a new colony and they will feel right at home. But if the combs are slimy/shiny looking and have a bad smell, then they do have to be cleaned - you could render the wax (although brood comb really doesnât yield much) and then scorch the empty frames or do a vinegar water soak and thorough airing out before storing as described.
