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Bees exiting at rear of brood box


#1

Newbie
Just built brood box and put in nucleus. Bees mainly coming out at the front at the base of the box, where they should, but a few also coming out at the back of the brood box at base, above corflute Insert section. Will try and upload photo.


#2

You have quite a large gap there.
If that was my box I would close it.
Now that there are bees in there I would just put some foam or something in there and fix it properly when the box comes out of service.


#3

Thanks Dee. Why do you think there is such a large gap?


#4

Get that sealed up or they will chew the hole to suit their needs and seal the parts they don’t want.


#5

Well my guess is that the wood is warped


#6

Thanks all. Will seal up later tonight when they are all in the hive. Still hot although 10pm.


#7

MGW, that is diffinaty a very badly warped screen bottom board you got. I’d get with Flow n report so you can get a good replacement one soon ! Guessing it’s not a panic situation but needs addressed … Things like this can happen ! Gerald


#8

Duct tape might be a quick temporary fix ! But only temporary.


#9

@Gerald_Nickel that is a bloke thing:

  • if it moves use and shouldn’t duct tape it.
  • if it doesn’t move and should WD40 it.

#10

I agree
I have seen bees chew through it and get tangled in the string


#11

I’ve got a roll of metal tape I use on furnace metal repair that they won’t chew thru if good quality duct tape is a “No No” !


#12

hey,

that’s secret mens business…

don’t give away our secrets!!


#13

There’s an angled metal strip supporting the thin timber and that is bent.


#14

Sounds like either shipping or packing issue if that’s the case. Get some good close ups n address the issue with Flow-hive … Cause you need more than my temporary tape fix !


#15

Downloaded n blewup the one pix. Still looks like a serious wrap unless that cross piece is cracked but doesn’t look like it. If the wood cross piece is wrapped it would cause the metal to bend as well… Either way … It needs addressed n cared for. Not a panic thing but still problem.

Mine are Flow or cedar. Not sure which manufacture n they’re pine. So no use comparing apples n oranges.


#16

funny but true…:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


#17

Thanks. Checked today. No cracking. The wood appears to just be warped. Have put some stiff/thick plastic strips in the gap for now. Working so far.
Will check with hive flow. Assembled straight from the box so don’t think I damaged it in any way. Everything else is going fine. Had a quick look today and girls are doing a great job on the empty frames. Way they are going expect to put flow give super on in a couple of weeks.


#18

Check out whether you’ve got the plastic sheeting on the lowest rung - there are two rungs & I think your photo shows the lower position; if so, pull it out and move it into the upper position. Rather like a domestic oven where you can move the rack up or down according to the rungs.

Yes, the metal strip is warped - tightened too much during construction ?


#19

Thanks bossybee.
I can’t remember now - is the metal strip part of the brood box or part of the bottom board? If the former, then I am not sure how I over tightened it, or how to loosen it? If the latter, then I just took the bottom board out of the box, treated it, and just put the brood box on top.
I cannot say it is not over tightened, but metal strip just appears to be a protector for the timber (?) and the board itself appears to be warped?
And thanks for your advice about the corflute on the lowest rung. I put it there to try and maximise ventilation given it has been quite hot here in Perth. I thought the corflute went onto the top rung in winter? Is that not the case? Would welcome any comment.
Mark


#20

If the screws are not wide enough exactly that strip will warp. File off the burrs on the flat side of the strip, straighten it so it dead flat. Put it back and screw one screw in fully. Check the alignment of the other hole. My screw hole was ever so slightly closer to the middle of the strip so that when I tightened the screw the strip warped to centre the screw in the hole. I got a small round file and filed the hole till the screw would go down without touching the strip hole. You will have an elongated hole. I needed to also make sure the counter sinking bevel was extended a bit.
If your screw hole is out more than half the size of the strip hole just move the hole towards the outer side of the strip hole ever so slightly. This will have the affect of pulling it flatter as it moves into the countersink bevel. Remember to predrill.