Hey guys and gals. Morph here. I have an oldskool hive which I’m hoping I’ll be splitting next spring. Will be getting a flow hive for sure. I want to get it early to get it prepared as i hate to leave things for last minute.
Is the flow mark two significantly better than the mark 1? Is it worth the extra money or spend the extra cash on something better? I can see the benefit of the oil tray, but the other advantages seem to be just cosmetic. Amiright?
I’m considering just getting a super to save money.
I have 4 Flow Hive supers in my apiary, the base board, brood box and a metal QX and a migratory roof. I have had them for a few years along with about 30 Langstroth hives.
The Flow Super will fit perfectly on a Langstroth being the same external measurements.
I guess the big plus with a Flow Hive2 is the adding of an oil tray to combat SHB, but I have fitted the traps that fit between frames in weaker hives and always when I do splits. I also have perimeter traps set up around my apiary and it certainly catches and drowns a heap more than get thru to my hives.
Most people have a spirit level so do is there any benefit to having them built into a FH2, I don’t think so, but that is just my opinion and far be it for me to advise doing anything that you have made your mind up on.
Cheers
The flow hive 1 can be easily modified to have a pest tray with lime,de or oil. The advantage of both 1 and 2 versions brood box is the mesh bottom board and when you extract the honey. The bottom coreflute insert can be observed for signs of leaking when extracting. With a solid bottom board you can’t see if you are having any issues. Some will say this is why you must extract by removing the flow frames but those of us who want to use it the way it was designed must understand the weaknesses.
If you choose to use your own brood box I recommend cutting two small slots 1front and 1 back with metal grids inserted under the bottom board. You can insert beetle trap trays under and also see any leaking when extracting.
Good luck
I actually already have a screened bottom board for my existing hive and also comes with a sliding plastic sheet at the bottom. It is not tilted backward though. Easy fix I assume
Okay this I didn’t quite get. Is there a photo I can see? Sorry I’m being a pain.
Hi Morph, it would be good if you could fill in your location properly in your profile. Being a world wide forum, people wont understand “Straya”. A rough location such as S.E. Qld. for example. Then we get an understanding of what you have to deal with. Hive beetles are not everywhere in Australia.
Hi Morph,
I had the same question when i bought my Flow hive mid 2019. I went for series 1 for the following reasons.
The series 2 has optional leveling feet. They are good for setting up and then their purpose is done with. I had some leveling feet from a washing machine that I screwed to the series 1 base.
Similarly, 2 has a spirit level. I have several in the shed. Series 1 has the correct angle built into the base so once the base is level everything above that is tilted correctly.
Series 2 has the tray, series 1 has the corflute slider. There are advantages to the tray, like being able to use oil to control SHB. I stuck narrow wooden slats, 3mm X 5mm, along the perimeter of the slider to make a simple tray. I use it in the bottom slot with a layer of diatomaceous earth on it. The bees can’t reach the stuff but they push the beetles through the mesh and they die on the tray. Each week or so I throw it in the bin with 10 or 20 beetles, and replenish the tray,
When I harvest the frames I empty the tray, turn it upside down and put it in the top slot. Any honey leak falls to the clean side of the tray and the bees can get to it. After a few days I go back to using it as a beetle death layer.
Series 2 has a window on each side of the super, series 1 has only one side window. I’d like windows on both sides, but that is about the only thing I really miss from series 2.
Series 2 also comes in red cedar that can be oiled to keep the timber look. That doesn’t matter to me, I’m happy to paint it anyway.
Hi here is a picture. I have an 8 frame brood box.
This is a bottom board with the grills at the bottom and the slide in trays at the bottom.
You can buy complete our buy those components and make yourself.
The aim is to have some visual of any leaks by looking in the trays as you progressively crack the flow frames.
