Colorado Beekeepers

Hi Bryce,

One of my mentors in Boulder thinks that we’ll have a nice flow through the end of August if these afternoon showers keep up. So far, I have seen the bees continue to bring in nectar and pollen. Only one of my hives has a super on it, and while they haven’t been terribly quick about it, they are filling the frames.

My super-less hive has had room to build a tiny bit more comb for a few weeks, but they haven’t. My mentor also told me that bees here generally stop building new comb this time of year. I’ve decided to just let that one be and see what happens. Two deep 8s, bottom packed with brood, pollen, and a little honey, top box 85-90% built out, and all but two frames filled with honey. I imagine if the flow continues through August they’ll be able to fill out those last two frames pretty well.

Hoping for the best!

mb

Looking to see if you have any recipes. I just attended a full day class on Saturday on how to use essential oils and beekeeping. Not using any man-made chemicals. Yes essential oils are derived from plants and man has to do it, but these are all food grade products just to eliminate any confusion of what I’m asking for by others that read this.

Little Creek Bee Ranch just east of Tulsa Oklahoma, Mr Ken Davis is the instructor. He got all his training and recipes from a beekeeper that has now passed away, but had been keeping bees this way for over 60 years. Ken Davis has been keeping bees this way for better than 10 years without the use of any chemicals.

He doesn’t allow one hive beetle scene in his hive without treating.

One of his treatments is a recipe that you strictly soak drink coasters in. You take the drink coaster not dripping, and place it on top of the brood frames. The bees do not eat this, they do chew it up and carry it outside the hive. By doing so it helps remove mites and hive beetles. And he uses this method even during a honey flow, since they’re not consuming it. The vapors also mites and hive beetles do not like.

Looking for any other recipes and or old-time beekeepers that are using this. Not that I need any more recipes, I’m looking to see how similar they are and with any treatment, I’m a firm believer in switching things up if nothing else due to resistance that are built up potentially by the host.

1 Like

This might interest you?

http://scientificbeekeeping.com/ipm-7-the-arsenal-natural-treatments-part-2/

We are in Berthoud, Colorado and just harvested 7 quarts of honey from our first year hive, and flow frames. The system worked beautifully! No mess, no filtering, no concern from the bees, no bee kill, just glorious honey that tastes like our small 5 acre Colorado farm. We are ecstatic, and so appreciative of the FlowHive for giving us the courage to venture into this remarkable realm. Owing all reverence to our beautiful, friendly, busy bees!

2 Likes

Hi Colorado Beekeepers!
My name is Kristina and I live in Boulder. I’ve been asked to give a talk about the first season with Flow hives here in Colorado at the Colorado State Beekeepers Association Winter Meeting 5 Nov at the Douglas County Fairgrounds (which I highly recommend attending!). What I’d like to do is summarize the experiences of as many CO beekeepers as I can, not just mine. So please share your thoughts, suggestions, frustrations and accomplishments with me, positive and negative. If you want to be negative, though, we may need to communicate directly as Big Brother (Mate?) may be watching and editing.
I’ve been keeping bees for over 30 years, and got my Flow Light last summer. So, that’s 4 Flow frames that I put in the center of a modified 10 frame Langstroth deep, two standard frames on either side of the Flows. I got the Flow because I’m a mentor up and down the Front Range and I wanted to be knowledgeable about what my customers might need help with.
My first two concerns were that we have two things that Australia doesn’t: Winter & Varroa. We need to get into our hives to test mite levels three or more times through the summer and treat them when needed. (If your hive dwindled and died at the end of the summer/early fall, that’s your culprit)
We need two deeps (or 3 mediums) for brood chambers in summer and that top one needs to be solid honey going into winter - no Flow frames- 60-80 pounds. I’m afraid lots of new Colorado Flow beekeepers will be coming up short.
I have a problem maybe someone can help me with. I got my Flow frames last summer. I put them on, but our nectar flow was almost over so I took them off again in July. I noticed that my Colorado winter hardy bees had started adding propolis to all those annoying hairline cracks. Perhaps they continued that little project this year. What Colorado bee in her right mind would put honey in a cell that’s not perfectly tight? I can imagine the comb builders getting a good dressing down from their older forager sisters. When the frames were full, I went out to the hive with my boyfriend all ready to video the great event, but I could NOT get those frames to crack! I finally got about the first 1/4 of one to crack in the kitchen and collected a pint of honey. Another pint went on the floor. Hints?
I hope you all come to the CSBA meeting! Check out coloradobeekeepers.org for info about the meeting and also for info about local bee clubs. I highly recommend joining one. All beekeeping is local and this is a great way to learn.
Cheers,
Kristina Williams
Beehave LLC mentoring and support
Boulder, CO

1 Like

Err, quite a bit of Australia does have winter. At least as much as we get in the southern and SW United States… :blush: Not like Colorado of course. And I ski in Utah every year, so I am somewhat aware of the climate…

Hi Kristina,

I live in Berthoud on a 5 acre farm, we have a first year hive that thrived, and we just successfully harvested 7 quarts of honey from our Flow frames this past weekend. I filmed some of the harvest. We basically hung out at the back of the hive for 3 hours (draining two frames at a time), and the bees were never aggressive, interested or upset with us. No bees died. No bee parts viewed in honey. Just pure manna! :slight_smile: We have now removed our Flow Frames/honey super for the winter. We still have a hive that is two brood boxes high, with a half frame of honey (we may or may not harvest), we are considering a frame feeder for the winter. We have worked hard to give our bees a wide variety of food – permaculture berms, fruit trees, large gardens, 3-acre alfalfa field. We have not treated for mites, as we have not seen evidence of mites. However, I continue to research this topic, and pray to the Bee Gods.

We are so grateful for this invention, as it invited us into the realm of beekeeping! The harvest was SO SIMPLE, this was actually what made beekeeping seem overwhelming and held us back. We learned so much along the way, and have connected with other local beekeepers and shared information. I was taken aback by the resistance and downright scorn for the product by traditional beekeepers (I heard… not a new invention, just marketed really slick; or that it will lure people in to beekeeping because they think it is simple, when it’s really complicated; or that we’d paid too much for a hive). I thought I’d get more encouragement/camaraderie given our common interest, and the inevitable boost to the bee population. Luckily I found a great mentor, and got answers at every step.

With regard to cracking the flow frames, there was some coaxing involved, mostly moving it in and out of the channel, and turning/cracking it at various points. The frames withstood quite a bit of pressure, before they yielded.

Thanks for sharing your information and meeting details.

Sincerely,
Greta Hanson Maurer

Berthoud, CO

@Kristinahoney Well just before my hive died, i was able to harvest 2 of my frames. I probably put the flow frames on a little too soon as the girls also put propolis in the cracks making it pretty hard to crack open the frames. I opened them up in sections though and that seemed to help. What i really noticed was the uncapped honey just poured out over the sided and back into the hive (I actually removed the whole box as i was getting the hive ready for winter, before it died). The capped honey went down the trough as expected. I’ve also seen videos where the 2nd harvest on the frames doesn’t have the issues with cracking open or with honey pouring out of the sides, its seems its just a first time problem.

I remember you had a bee keeping class earlier this year which i wanted to attend, I think it was on a Sunday and i wasn’t able to make it. I hope I’m able to make one next year. The “class” i did take this year was pretty much a joke and a wast of time and money.

My hive died i think from 2 things, pesticide poisoning and mites. I had a few bees that had their tongues sticking out, and also found lots of mites. It was like a 1,2 punch in a very short period of time. I’m looking forward to learning more though and trying again next year (2 hives this time, not 1). I’m going to try to get to the meeting Nov 5th.

Thanks
Tim

Hi Greta,
Thanks for your reply! It sounds like you have a great place for your bees. A word of caution about the varroa mites, though. By the time you see them on the bees it may be to late to save the hive. Yes, they are visible to the naked eye if one is sitting on your hand. Otherwise, 75% are under the brood cappings and the rest are well hidden on the bees, often between the abdominal segments on the underside. You need to do an alcohol wash or sugar shake to get an actual number. From a sample of 300 bees (1/2 cup) you should get no more than 6 mites. More and you need to treat.
Keep having fun with your bees.
Cheers,
Kristina Wiliams
Boulder

1 Like

At 8,000ft, I’m going into winter with only one brood box almost full. So I’m feeding my bees with this - http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/8-Frm-Wintering-Inner-Cover/productinfo/W254IC/ - filling the 2" high box with the sugar/pollen recipe there on the site. I need to take a picture of the bees having found it and eating it. I got another 2" box to fill soon and easily put on the hive, removing the eaten other one, to fill again, and keep trading them out all winter and in to the Spring. I’m really hoping this hive survives the winter and can fill another brood box next year for food for the winter. I’m contemplating wrapping it with roofing felt paper.

Insulating the top is the most important. I use 1-2" rigid foam with a rock or ratchet strap. I guess you’d use two pieces if you have the gabled roof or put it between the inner cover and lid. Make sure that you have a notch in the inner cover. I’d leave the S side open to the sun. You can bungee some more foam to the other 3 sides if you want. Next summer don’t put on any Flow frames until you have a second deep of drawn comb for the winter.

Thank you Kristinahoney for your response. I looked back and you are in Boulder. If you put the rigid foam on, then I will too. I have one insulation board above the 2" feeding box - and the feeding box has an entrance hole. But I’ll put more under the gabled roof. I was considering putting insulation on just the back, but you’re suggesting the 2 sides as well - ok then. And yes, I figured it’ll need another summer to build before ever thinking of gathering honey. I have alot of gardens, but considering more pollination flowers/plants.

Oh, not much poison spraying goes on around me. Most of us live on 5-10 acre properties and then surrounding forest. But I do know of some homeowners spraying individual plantings of thistles and knap weed. I’m wondering if I should ask them to tell me when they are going to do this. I’ve heard I could cover my hives with a tarp for a day at this time.

1 Like

Hi Karey,
Don’t worry about herbicide spraying. It’s insecticides and tank mixes with fungicides that are worrisome. Lots of people spray their conifers for various bugs. Bees don’t normally visit conifers, but drift can be a problem.
I tell my mentorees not to expect or take honey the first year, especially if starting with a package. Furthermore you can expect to feed heavily. Is the entrance hole to the outside? If so screen it so you don’t feed the whole neighborhood.

I’m teaching a course in December, Beginning Beekeeping is NOT for Dummies. It will include the Flow Hive.

http://forum.honeyflow.com/t/beginning-beekeeping-is-not-for-dummies-winter-2016-class-colorado/9322?u=kristinahoney

Kristinahoney, I’ve kept your classes in mind, thinking of this Sunday morn maybe for Part A. But December and Sundays make it hard (actually winter driving to Boulder would always be touch and go for me, besides the hour drive). But let us know about any other class times in the future.

You’re in Boulder and that’s where I ordered my bees from (tho they actually came from Calif, I found out). Nuc order time is around the corner, where would you suggest ordering from?

I did surround the three sides and top of my hive with 2" foam - the bees sound happy and are eating the sugar/pollen fondant.

Hi Everyone!
In my neck of the woods it’s going to be warm enough this weekend to look for bee activity and give the hives a heft to see how much food is left. More on my Facebook page BeehaveLLC.
I’ll be teaching classes again! Here’s a brief summary and you can see more on my website http://beehavementoring.com or if it doesn’t redirect, then https://sites.google.com/view/beehavementoring
Beekeeping is NOT for Dummies
Sat 4 Feb 8:30 am -5:30 pm
Sat 11 Feb 8:30 am -5:30 pm
Sat 4 Mar 8:30 am -5:30 pm
Sat 11 Mar 8:30 am -5:30 pm
Early Spring Management - Feeding and Swarm Control
Thurs 2 Feb 7-9pm
Thurs 16 Feb 7-9pm
Starting Right with Packages, Nucs, Swarms
Thurs 2 Mar 7-9pm
Thurs 16 Mar 7-9pm
Fight the Mite - Varroa Management
Thurs 6 Apr 6-8pm
Thurs 13 Apr 6-8pm
SPECIAL OFFER! If you are within a 2 mile flight radius of my bees (see map below), you can attend for FREE! This is how concerned/committed I am about varroa’s effect on honey bee health and the importance of a neighborhood approach to managing it! Please let me know if you’re coming.
Spring isn’t far off. Maples will bloom and queens will start laying in February. Hang in there!
Cheers,
Kristina Williams
Boulder, CO

I’m updating then CSBA website with springtime info (I’m an advisor now). This is my first venture into a real website, but I think the basics are there, like where to get bees, equipment, information on bee health, and the bee club nearest you. Check it out. http://coloradobeekeepers.org
Cheers,
Kristina Williams
Boulder, CO

1 Like

Only 3 1/4 hours left for the Early Bee registration rates for the Colorado State Beekeepers Winter Meeting! After midnight tonight rates go up by $5 (and it will get harder to figure out how many lunches to preorder). Check out the program and register at http://coloradobeekeepers.org/2017-winter-bee-meeting.html
Bee There or Bee Square!
Kristina Williams
Mile Hive Bee Club Prez
BCBA, CSBA boards
Beehave LLC

Hi, Beekeepers! The 2018 National Western Stock Show will take place from January 6 - 21. The Boulder County Beekeepers Association provides a beekeepers’ booth, but I think all of us in the Metro Denver area did a great job of staffing it last year and I’d like to do it again. After all, many of those people are from the Denver area, which is our home territory. This gives us a unique opportunity to talk with thousands of people about the incredible honey bee. Public outreach helps us all with a wide variety of human interactions with bees — municipal ordinances about bees, neighbor relations, planting pollinator forage, applications of pesticides, purchase of honey and other bee products, and general good will and support for honey bees and other pollinators.
Please consider signing up for a shift here https://doodle.com/poll/kadfp9u9mztqiwwn . It’s great fun to go to the National Western Stock Show, plus you get to share your knowledge and passion for bees with anyone who walks by. Beginning beekeepers, don’t worry that you don’t know enough. You know lots more than the crowds that are just walking by, and your enthusiasm is infectious — sign up!
You can use this link to sign up, change shifts, check when your friends are working. Please try to stick to your shift so we don’t have to scramble at the last minute to cover holes. Thanks for stepping up, and for being part of our greater beekeeping and agricultural community.
The booth will be in the Education Hall, yellow brick building with black cameos of various stock animals (no bees) on the front.
Since this is an educational booth, we have tickets to cover your general admission and parking. We’ll distribute them once everyone is signed up. Along with being an educational booth, we’re prohibited from doing or displaying anything remotely commercial. So, no sales, business cards, advertising or displays of your wares, please. Bee clubs can display their cards and we’ll have the CSBA Why join a bee club? flyers with local clubs’ stickers on the back. (There’s also a stipulation that no drones are allowed, but we’re assuming that queens and workers are okay. ; )
Woopie-ty-ay-o!
Kristina Williams
Colorado State amnd Boulder County Beekeepers Ass’ns boards
Mile Hive Bee Club president

My bees are drinking a lot of water this year. More than what I’ve noticed before. But maybe its because they finally are drinking from the water i have setup for them.

1 Like