I just assembled my Flow Hive and live in windy area of Northern Spain. I am worried that at a minimum the roof will blow off. I did put it close to a wall so that will reduce the wind a lot, but I am surprised (or missed it in the instructional video) that you do not attach all 4 pieces together or put a weight on top (like a normal flat roof hive - typical cinder block or big rock sitting on top).
Thank you for your help. The bees arrive soon!
If you are worried- better to add some fasteners for the roof. The cedar hives are very light… Little gate latches work fine- the ones with a hook and an eye.
Also cosider waterproofing and insulating the roof too- search on this forum to see how others have done it. An easy way is to use aluminum flashing material as a layer over the a-frame and under the roof slats…
Like this… 
You can also use a ratcheting strap, or some of those nice thick and heavy curved terra-cotta (Spanish or mediterranean-style) roof tiles will sit quite stably over the ridgeline of the roof.
Great - thank you! I doubt the Super will blow away 
but it still seems like it should be attached to the brood box and the brood box to the base. I also think I assembled it wrong as I have a gap in the front between the super and brood box. I’ll check out more pictures and the manual again!
Beautiful hive! I will use the roof tiles - I have a pile in my back yard - doesn’t everyone in Spain!? Thank you!
Nanci,
As I assembled my gabled roof I added caulking on the roof panel overlaps n at the peak trim cap. I’ve also sealed my cedar wood with five coats of Tong Oil letting dry full between coats. I lightly sand with very fine 400 grit. 
. Dawn has shown a pix with hooks or latches. That holds the roof n sections together.
We get a few gusts around here up to 40 to 50 mph but not often. Normally our peaks are less than 30 mph. The five foot fence breaks a lot of our winds. I’ve been able to keep mine down with double 2 lb bricks. But I can understand many apiaries are in windy area. One of the commercial apiaries I work at has about 5 lb bricks in each hive n works successful. This area near Mtn Rainier get gap winds to 70 plus mph many times per year n the large bricks work perfect ! 
Hopefully this gave you a little help.
Gerald
I thought of my Roof blowing off too! I often refer to where we live as “Up on this Ole Windy Hill” since there’s always a breeze of some sort…always. I didn’t want to use standard gate type latches because I was afraid that if the wind was too strong, it could actually pull the latches/anchors out of the wood itself leaving unsightly holes & making more problems.
I came up w/a plan & after some careful measuring, I filed out a section dead-center front to back on the Roof Supports to countersink the bracket I decided to use. I then drilled a small hole in the center of that which was then carefully transferred to the Roof where a hole was drilled & a 1 3/4" screw was added from the top for securement of the bracket. Another short 1/4" screw was added from the bottom so that the bracket wouldn’t bend under strain/tension…
There are several styles of the bracket I used. I decided to use the 3 hole type as seen here…
Looking from below, you can see the Aluminum underlayment I added to waterproof the Roof. You can also see that countersinking the bracket was the best way to go to keep out pests as well as adding a nice, clean look…
I used the same style bracket at the rear of my Flow Hive & secured it using the original 1 1/2" screw. There is another one on the other side just like you see here. The “wetness” you are seeing below isn’t from the recent rain leaking through the Roof, it’s from the first coat of 65/35 Citrus Solvent/Pure Tung Oil I applied weeks before this picture was taken.
When I want/need to take off the Roof, I just remove the Springs from the Roof bracket & gravity hangs them for me from the rear bracket…
Only time will tell how well this design works out for me…
Later…Mater
