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Hive parts. Dovetailed corners


#1

So after reading M Bush and T Rowe and a bit of Lusby I have decided on having all medium hive boxes (except the Flow box) and all 8 frames wide. I used dovetail joints on the hive boxes/supers as they were easy to do and seemed sturdy.
I built a screened bottom with an under hive entrance. Should be harder for mice to get in and mites can fall through the screen.
I ignored Tim Rowe and put a hole in the top board in case the bees need feeding as I think they will. The feeding bottle is from a Costco nut container and it seems to hold liquid well even with small holes in the lid.
That’s my stack of six supers under a tarp for the winter with a lid on the top. I left the interiors rough as it has been shown that bees surrounded by propolis are healthier. Hopefully they will propolise the rough surfaces.


#2

I’m not sure if it’s my glasses or my computer, however your photos appear very fuzzy:(


#3

I had the same problem, @JeffH, but if you click on each picture, it sharpens up just fine. :blush:


#4

Hi Dawn, thanks. Now I have lost them altogether. @Obas maybe in the process of editing the thread.

PS, they re-appeared, then I lost them again after clicking on one.


#5

Strange, they are still fine for me. Visit to the optician this week? :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


#6

Click on the photos and they sharpen up. They are blurry on my computer too. Not sure why.


#7

on mine they were blurry- then they sharpened- and now they disappeared… weird.

Nice looking heavy duty boxes though- well done. I haven’t seen that type of joint before.


#8

Hi Dawn, it must be my computer. I opened up a new page & the images are still missing altogether. Doesn’t matter…


#9

They were blurry when I first opened the link, then OK when I clicked and now they have all gone. I wanted to see if they really were dovetailed joints and they are indeed. Personally I prefer the castellated box joint because it has a much greater area of contact. I glue and nail my boxes with polyurethane glue and galvanised flathead nails. Each corner gets cramped into place and secured with 10 nails. Before the glue sets, I “bump” the boxes into square.


#10

by the looks of the photos- his boxes are around 2 inches thick- I would think being that solid there is no need for more finger/box joints. Those boxes would be incredibly solid. It also looks as if he has used giant screws- judging by the size of the screw holes.


#11

The boxes I have made are from Ontario white pine sawn to what the trade calls 4/4". This means 1 inch thick. I smoothed one side with a planer - the outside. Pine is a soft wood and has about the highest insulation value and rot resistance of our local woods. Buying direct from a sawyer is also the cheapest way of getting wood.


#12

Thanks for posting Obas. It’s really difficult to see your pics for some obviously computer related reason.


#13

is that really only 1 inch thick (25mm)? They look a lot fatter than my hoop pine flow hives which are 21mm.


#14

es

Assembling dovetail joints on bee box. After glue and assembly the box is clamped to a flat surface and the diagonal clamp allowed squaring the assembled box. The dovetails are easy to make using a table saw for the pins and a bandsaw for the tails.