I have 10-frame Langstroth deep hive and originally was planning to place my new 6 frame Flow hive box on top at that…but unfortunately the 6 frame Flow hive box is narrower than the 10-frame Langstroth box.
Since I already have the box that comes with the 6 flow frames, how could I best make any modification to make it all work together without having to buy a 8-frame Langstroth deep hive?
Mariska - I think it would be best to match your brood box to your honey super rather than vice versa.
A pine, eight-frame, deep hive box is a virtual pittance. You’ll need a correct size bottom board too though…and a new cover. And a queen excluder that fits right as well…and if you want to make things match you’ll need red cedar, and…ahhhhh! I see why you ask.
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Thanks Bobby, that is was I thought but wanted to triple check before making the additional investment. I am glad you confirmed that I need to purchase the 8 frame deep hive box to make it work best.
Sorry - I was being a tad bit circuitous. I don’t envy you having to buy new items if your set up with 10 frame gear but look at the bright side - new stuff is always nice to have and if you’re a new beek, you have a 10-frame hive body to expand into for swarm control or splits 
Get matching 8-frame gear at beethinking.com
If it is any consolation, I won a 10-frame starter hive in a raffle at bee school this past Saturday and all my other stuff is 8-frame.
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The 6 Flows can go in a 10 frame box with 2 normal frames in the box as well - does that help?
Mariska,
Bob is correct ! Less resistance n quicker results buying a new set of 8 frame stuff.
Michael Bush had gone the second mile per pix’s n posting by cutting his 10 frames equipment down to 8’s. That’s a lot of work if your only have new stuff.
As for the free stuff ! Maybe you can recover some cash by selling the 10 frame equipment to another local beekeeper. Just a couple idea ! And Valli had a quick suggestion too. Good luck n enjoy the hobby ! Gerald 
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Just set the 8 frame on top of the 10 and use a filler block on the gap.
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@Mariska I’m doing a mix of 8 and 10 but being all Langs it is easier to swap between Langs - Also the 8 Frame can double as a NUC if you are so inclined - nucs are usually 5-6 frames.
If all you kit is Lang it is easy just to swap the frames around as the need requires
they will make honey in the normal frames too, so do you extract the honey in those using traditional method or just leave the honey in those two frames alone? Sorry if it’s a dumb question but I’m lost as I have just started.
@Chet_Calhoun Sorry If I confused you - I’m talking about 8 Frame Hives and 10 Frame hives.
@Bruce_Choate Bruce is talking about Putting an 8 Frame Flow Honey Box (Deep like the Brood Box) on top of the 10 Frame Brood or Medium box - Bruce it can be done in Summer if you have good weather and so long as any rain can’t get into the box below - but I don’t recommend it.
Mixing Box sizes is just a nightmare waiting to happen.
In the UK you can get an eke (shim) to convert a National box to a Langstroth - not sure how good that is but @DextersShed that used to be on here converted a National to put a Langstroth on top for a flow hive.
I know this does not answer your question but does this help clarify?
Answer to you question - If I understand you - yes bees will make honey in normal frames - I’m going to split my Flow hive Fames over 4 boxes (I have enough for 2 sets of 8 Frame Boxes ie 12 flow frames)
or I could do a 10 Frame box (7 Flow Frames) and a 2 flows in one box and 3 in another. - I got 2 Langstroth Dummy Frames today so I can play with it.
Don’t mix Flow Hive Boxes and Frames up (ie and 8 Frame Langstroth Hive holds 6 Flow Frames and a 10 Frame Langstroth Hive holds 7 Flow Frames
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I agree with @Bruce_Choate, Sit the box on top in the middle with a filler block on each side or flush on one side with a larger filler block on the other side. The bees will quickly fill the tiny gap/s with propolis to keep any rain out.
That may work in hotter climes but if you have wet summers the boards will rot and the hive will leak
PS, if you decide to go with @Bruce_Choate or my advice, be sure to use something that Wont rot.
Also, with a QX in mind, it would be best to permanently attach the filler block/s to the 8 frame box that could easily be removed if needs be at a later date.
Any leaks - water will find it. Condensation from water getting in will promote Mould and Fungus growth and Spores and Bacteria flourish in that environment - leaving way for chalk brood, (fungal organism called Ascosphaera apis) possible chilled brood, bees like humidity not damp.
If the hive gets cool condensation will form - you cannot stop mould from growing - it is in the air - all you can do is not leave the hive open to leaks
PSS, be sure to do a good job of fitting whatever you use as a filler block, screw it on with a bit of gap filler or silicone. You could probably screw a piece of aluminium angle (cut to length) on each side.