need advice please new beekeeper just 14 have a swarm in a 10-frame deep box they are drawing comb! advice welcome
Hello and welcome to the Flow forum! 
I suggest you join a local bee club, and see if somebody there is willing to mentor you, and if they run classes (many do). I would also recommend getting some beekeeping books for rapid reference. I like Beekeeping for Dummies (not saying you are a dummy) as a good starting point. It is slightly out of date with some of its concepts, but it is good at explaining the basics
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Hey Rubee, welcome to the forum! Congrats on your swarm capture 
Definitely connect with local beekeepers for the best learning support as a beginner. I found lots of info about Texas beekeeping groups posted on the forum, maybe this one is close to you:
But please do ask questions- there are a lot of experienced beeks here who might be around at times when your local mentors are asleep
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Thanks for the help a lot !
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how can i get the hive stronger. the hive is small 1 check every weds day. they are still drawing comb there is a queen.
Rubee do you know if the swarm you caught was a primary swarm or a cast - primary swarms are pretty big and will contain a mated queen, while cast swarms are usually smaller and their queens are yet to be mated.
If you’ve got a primary, you should be able to see tiny eggs and new larvae in the cells of that new comb now. Eggs aren’t easy to see but once you know what to look for you’ll get good at spotting them. If the swarm is a cast and the queen is not mated yet, she has to complete mating flights over several days before being able to lay.
Either way, building comb for the queen to lay in and for foragers to store food in to raise all those new bees is the main goal for the workers right now. Swarms come prepared with their honey stomachs full to use to make wax, but they might’ve used it up by now and if it’s dry and hot where you are now it might be a good idea to feed them some 1:1 sugar water.
You can do a search on the forum for how to mix that up and ways to feed it to your bees. I like using ziplock baggies whenever I need to feed a colony in spring.
Then, sit back and let the workers do their jobs and your colony will expand in time 
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The swarm I think is a cast me and my dad and my baby brother put hummingbird feeders with sugar water like you said around the hive do you think it will work and is it normal for the queen and most of the workers to be on the wall and last frame and I do not see eggs they
have built three frames of comb but how often should a Cheak the swarm.
Bees do not have long enough tongues to reach the syrup in hummingbird feeders. Also hummingbird food is 25% sugar, bee food should be at least 50% sugar. You need to use a baggie or some other in-hive feeder. If you feed outside the hive, you risk attracting robber bees from other hives to your colony.
No more than once per week. They get upset when you do an inspection, and it sets them back by a couple of days each time. I wouldn’t leave it longer than 2 weeks at this time of year though, because they might run short of food or swarm on you, and you need to intervene before either of those happens.
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In the hummingbird feeders we put 1 to 1 sugar water the only beekeeper in the area the bees died no bee for 15 miles excepted wild.
I understand, thank you. However, the bees will still not be able to reach it. I suggest you use the forum search tool (magnifying glass at the top of the page) to search for baggie feeding inside the hive, as @Eva suggested
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ok we will do that we have a top feeder on the way and when do we add the honey super not to harvest this year and do we leave it on thru winter when it comes and if it needs to be taken off and we harvest it when do we get it ready for winter
Firstly, I only add new boxes when the 80% rule is satisfied. You need:
- Fully drawn comb on 80% of the frames
- Each frame is 80% full of food or brood
- Every frame is 80%+ covered with bees
Secondly, do not feed with a super on the hive, unless you want syrup rather than honey in your harvest!
Third, unless you have a subtropical climate, you need to take the super off over winter. In that case, you may need a second brood box for food stores for the bees over winter. You should let them fill that before adding a super. At this time of year, it is unlikely that you will get a honey harvest this year, although it is possible. Bees are tricky things, it is hard to predict what they will do, especially when the weather is so wild as it has be lately across the US and much of the world.
Timing of taking off the super for winter depends on your local climate, which is why I suggested joining a local bee club. They will know when the nectar flow is over for the year. For much of the northern US, it is around July, but some areas get a fall flow
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I will try to find the bee club it will be hard not a lot that I can find so I came here for some advice, and it is harder that I can’t drive yet but I have a friend that his filmily has 24
hives 30 Milles from my house, so I have been getting help from him
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Wild bees will still rob your hive, given a chance!
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I admire you Rubee! Listen to everything Dawn says and do lots of reading on this forum by searching the topics and questions you have. Once you set up your feeder in the hive you can take some time to learn more before you have to worry about big next steps. I’m so glad you have a mentor - we’re still here for ya too but some questions really need local answers
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ok thanks for all the help
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I did a google search for you. I will post a link and attach a screenshot of the closest beekeeper association club that I could find - about 20 miles from you in Longview. You can look for yourself too. Sometimes the shortest distance isn’t the most convenient club. If your dad helped you with the swarm, maybe he would like to go to a couple of meetings too? Most clubs have monthly meetings, so it wouldn’t be a lot of time.
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thanks, we will check it out you are Beter at searching than I am, thanks so much for real thanks both of you
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