Hi Amy! Welcome to the forum 
Your setup is so charming & I love the paint job too! TBH I saw those vent holes and thought the same as DawnâŠalong with the copyright violation, the fake flows are known to be faulty which always ends up a bad surprise to a new beek. Anyway, no worries & like she said, the beekeeping part is whatâs most important.
Speaking of bees, when do they arrive? 
Beautiful setup. Make sure you didnt get duped. It really doesnât look like other flowhives. From the apperance of the roof, handles, and bottom board i would have guessed knockoff too but i think it may be a classic. Im in love with the paint job and yard, great work! Bees are amazing. 
Oh yeah, your roof may be on backwards. The side where the gable isnt as tall is supposed to be on the harvest side. Its so you can harvest without removing the roof.
The handles are like that on the flow classic but the base is supposed to tilt back for harvest - maybe you didnât assemble the base correctly?Where did you order it from? Or was it a gift?
Itâs a flow classic⊠they donât have the fancy handles, at least in the us. It was ordered directly from flow website. Here is a pic
Itâs suppose to tilt towards the harvest if you look at the pic from flow I just posted. Assembled this way the hive is level. If I flip the roof or the base it is no longer level. The hive entrance is pointing towards the fence to avoid a flight path with kids and dogs.
Already installed for a month and they have filled out 5 frames already! Added an entrance reducer⊠the sun roof is to protect the entrance a bit more from torrential rains we get. But mostly because I thought it was cute.
Oh, ok. I see! Ok. Weâll stop bothering you about buying fakes!!
It is ok if the hive is tilted front-back all the time, the bees will still build straight comb. Just make sure it is level side-side.
The bees donât mind some water on their front porch. Itâs the snow they dislike.
Love the entrance shield you added. Thought about doing something like that to mine. The roof definitely appears to be on backwards. No big deal lol, it wll only be in the way when you add the super. 
I canât get it to fit well the other way but I might have to do some more wood planing when I add the super. For the price I really wish the pieces all fit better. But that seems to be a common complaint about flow.
Check to make sure it is square. Mine gets pretty tight when itâs damp out. I find it seat easiest when i slide it on front to back. But not let it all the way down on the front before the back starts going down.
I love your paint job and awning
Always fun to see what kind of other wildlife is interacting with the bees.
The large holes only confused me because the top of the roof is different to a fake Flow, plus I havenât seen them with coreflute sliders in the bottom boards.
Apart from that, my recommendation is to not add extra ventilation. Extra ventilation will defeat the bees effort in air conditioning their hive by allowing hot air in. Plus during wet weather it will allow more damp air into the hive, which can assist chalk brood to increase.
All a hive needs is an adequate entrance, no more. A maximum of 15sq.cm. for a strong colony, & grading down for weaker colonies.
I have vent holes for the roof, but i also leave the insulation on the top cover at all times. The bees seem to like it that way (propolized in place). So far, no mold or mildew in the roof, seems to work just like a regular homes gable vents.
Yeah, Iâm concerned about humidity and mold in our swampy climate.
I hear what youâre saying for the use of a gable roof with overhang on a flow hive. Unless such a roof is watertight, moisture will creep in via capillary action. That will only add to whatever moisture that naturally occurs on account of the bees activities. I find minimal moisture in the roofs of my watertight migratory lids, especially with strong colonies. The stronger the colony, the less moisture in the roof. That stands to reason because a strong colony will be more efficient at air circulation (which removes moisture), than a weak colony.
A Flow roof might look good, however good looks is as far as it goes. They are impractical as far as serious beekeeping practices are concerned.
I posted my build journey on a new topic but thought Iâd post the final pic pre painting here.
Sorry it wouldnât let me attach a photo for some reason, so heres the link. 
From afar:
Up close :
The hives are new, but the beekeeper who sold me my 10 frames nucs told me to quickly add a second brood frame to each hive, because the colonies were already strong (more than 85% of the frames were covered) in order to avoid swarming.
The table behind is hollowed out, with a mesh underside, so I do not need to put the boxes on the ground and risk loosing a queen and to lift them from the ground and break my back.
I let the Flow frames on top for the pictures, and to get the bees accustomed to it (I have read that bees need to map out their new living space to get a feel for it), but I may remove them when I next inspect my hives if pest are in there, as I do not think they will use them this year.
For now, a few very small ants crawl up inside sometimes, but the bees seems very apt at sending them on their way out.
I will also plant a small bee friendly flower bed not to far.
