Thank you! That clears up my confusion. I was getting nervous.
I know the team has been overrun with emails. I sent this question in before the forum was up and running.
Can I buy and extra Key?
In several videos they show using 2 keys, I understand the design may have changed some, not requiring 2, but seams more stable with 2.
If design changed that much an only 1 is needed then ok, just wanting to get a great start?
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In regards to the lower access panel. Does this need to be cut up so high? It seems like this would only really need to be as high as the drain port at a minimum. Is the height of the panel just so you can inspect the fullness of the frame/the progress of the drain?
From what I gather the bees fill the frames from the centre outwards so if the outer cells by the access panel are capped with Honey then it is a pretty good indicator that the frame is almost complete and ready to harvest. In which case yes it is necessary otherwise you would have to lift the frames to inspect them which kinda defeats the purpose of the Flow system.
Are you thinking of altering an existing Hive?
Likely what I will end up doing, although this may change as I have experience with the flow frames would be to split the 6 frames that I have coming into 2-flow lite hives and do 3 frames in each.
Iām hoping to do that later if I want to expand quickly
The videos showing the 2 keys were using an earlier design. You will only need one key.
We are planing on setting up to sell all the bits individually (spares and replacement parts) eventually, although that might be sometime off yet.
Correct. The height just gives you a better view and leaves enough timber to keep some strength in the box. The width needs to exactly match the flow frames, but the height could be played with.
Hi, I have downloaded the pdf file for modifying a standard 8 or 10 frame Langstroth Super box to allow us to fit the Flow Frames. The dimension "Cā on the second page of the pdf file for the depth of the super is given as 245mm. I assume this could be a mistake and should be 240mm. The extra 5mm would make the depth of the box deeper than standard/existing boxes. I was going to make my own out of Western Red Cedar, but finding an extra 5mm is a bit problematic. If the Flow Frames are 240mm deep then there is no clearance at the bottom, a normal frame would be about 232mm deep with about 8mm clearance. Could you please confirm/clarify this. Thanks Neil.
Hi @Martydallas its a good question, here is a response straight from the horses mouth:
CEDAR:
Great question. An earlier design, which did feature in the video a lot, did require two keys. Your Flow frames will only require the use of one key to operate effectively. However if you want more Keys for any reason we can make these available.
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Thank you, Cedar and Jake
both is what I thought, I understand evolution of a product. I have funded/supported several crowd funding projects. But this is the one Iām most excited about, Doing something for the world/environment and also creating a new hobby for me is really got me excited.
With your design that required two of them I saw that as somewhat a positive for giving equal force in both directions. Nevertheless if itās been designed to only require one thatās all thatās required/needed.
I have put my name on the list for the more deluxe higher in special cut complete box. When shipping my order I know/Hope Will have the opportunity to potentially add additional components. so adding an extra key is something I think I will want to do. Also I think I will want 1 extra flow frame.
Thank You again 
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Hi Pink,
There is lots of good information following your post, but I am not sure anyone actually clearly answered your question. You are getting the complete hive but you will be getting it flat, all the pieces cut out and ready to be assembled.
Assembling hives is easy, they go together in a very straightforward fashion, and I am SURE the Flow Team will include the necessary instructions for building the FlowHive.
Some people use large staples to construct the boxes. I have seen them nailed as well, usually with finishing nails sunk, filled and painted over.
I prefer to use screws, a fairly fine guage so as to not crack the joints. I pre-drill as well to minimize any splits in the wood.
I use marine grade stainless steel screws. They cost more, but given the environment the hives live in I think it makes the most sense and in the grand scheme of things is a pretty small extra expense.
My Father has always painted his hives, with whatever latex paint he had left over from my Momās house remodeling. Trust me, living with a professional Interior Designer means there are ALWAYS an abundance of colours to pick from. Sadly He usually just pours them all into one bucket and mixes them so his hives are mostly a pukey collection of muddy colours. The good news is the bees donāt seem to mind.
I am looking into doing a paraffin resin finish on my new hive. I havenāt yet figured out how to do it exactly. I am thinking maybe someoneās used turkey fryer off of Craigslist. If the pieces could be done individually and then assembled that would work fine, but I think I have read you must assemble the boxes first and then boil then, as the joints swell and canāt be fit together after treatment.
In any event, you will need to build your hive. Itās a part of the process. Even if you have no experience donāt be alarmed. It is an excellent starter project and there will be many of us building them when they come to help you!
Sara
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Thank you so much Sara for all the info.
Thanks for this Neil we will double check the measurements, please note that most bee boxes do have some variation in dimensions, personally Iāve found up to 10-20mm difference in width (not sure of height) from different suppliers here in Australia.
As the PDF is to make cuts to your existing boxes, I would ignore the height difference and make the cuts to your own box anyway, you can reduce the bottom window height by 5mm if you like as this window can be any height as long as you can access the channel openings. Some designs weāve done have a small slit at the bottom, others have had the entire back of the hive as a window e.g. Flowā¢ Hive - Chris & Halleās first harvest Video on http://www.honeyflow.com/gallery-videos/videos/p/60
My current hive (which I set up because FLOW gave me the motivation to finally get one!!!) is set up against a fence, would it be ok to adapt my box to harvest the honey out of the front instead of the back?
Thanks!
The bees will be more aggitated and may be much more aggressive if you approach from the front (ie the direction of their entrance). Which is probably why the access panels are recommended to be oriented towards the back of the hive.
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Turn your hive sideways to the fence so you have the front and back exposed.
Would that solve the problem?
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Well, I did think of thisā¦The entrance currently faces my garden and yard, and I really enjoy seeing them all come and go. Added to that, my 3 year old daughter love to sit in a chair and watch the entrance. None of that would really possible if I rotated it.
Can you move the hive 2 foot away from the fence so you can access all sides? This might not be possible in a smaller yard, but accessing from the front would more then likely be problematic. The issue of defensive behavior aside you will be draining the honey directly into the path of the entrance as well. Which means you will have to be much more diligent about covering the container that itās draining into to prevent bees from getting into it.
What about turning the hive and using a modified bottom board so the bees enter from the side (this will still be oriented towards your observation area). But the āfrontā and ābackā will be oriented to allow the flow frame to drain away from the entrance.
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As mentioned in another post, it may be possible to have the Flow hive super on the bottom and brood on top. This may help if the hive cannot be rotated 90 degrees or moved away from the fence. Warreā hives work this way so its not a new thought.