Honeyflow.com | FAQ's | Community |

Gabled roof for 7 frame flowhive


Got it in one, Skeggs. I am laughing at myself with my tongue in my cheek when i type that kind of stuff. Some people don’t get it. I am glad that you do. :heart_eyes:


Dawn, I just ordered it!! Thanks for the help!!



And thank you for tolerating all the horsing around with my international beekeeping friends here. Despite our excessive playfulness, we do try to be constructive. :blush:


Just keep it clean and I am good!! :smile:


It seems that what we call migratory lids are called something else in your neck of the woods. Out migratory lids sits flat and flush on the hive box and is often held in place with a house brick and not strapping. I do it more economical with a rock to hold it down.
When you have the lid paint it white with a couple of coats paint even on the metal to reflect your summer heat. Also use a piece of ply wood as a false inner cover laying on the top of the frames under the lid, that help to reduce the bees building comb up there. It should be about 1" narrower than the inside measurements of the box to still allow for ventilation to the roof.


I’ve not heard of using ply for this before, vinyl yes but not ply. Is vinyl still used with telescoping lids?
I have had the bees build comb in the lid with vinyl on the frames so like all things bees there are exceptions.
Unlike the Merican version which appears to keep the bee space above the frames as the top sits flush with the top of the box, ours has a 25mm height above the top of the box which goes outside the bee space guidelines. Ours also have 4 ventilation holes whereas the other appears not to have any. Not that it would matter as all of mine have been propolized anyway. I have added a sheet of foam insulation inside the lid which reduces the lid volume and heat transfer.


I have a variety of migratory lids made locally or imported and sold locally. They are all a bit different depending on where they come from… For instance, one has 4 ventilation holes and thin ply at the top. Another type uses what looks like masonite for the inner top but all have a steel outer wrap to protect against the weather. Others have no ventilation holes at all and thicker ply. I’ve seen some with two ventilation holes, one at the front and one at the rear. The height of the space above the frames will vary a bit too…


I think Brushey Mountain bee farm sells a gabled 10 frame you will have to modify but you might just ask flow hive to see if they will sell you a roof. They can only say yes or no.


I love my flat roofs. Anyone with more than one hive will find flat roofs handy (like a little table) while working on the other hives. I find them handy for shaking SHBs out of frames onto before squashing them. Also they are ideal to piggyback nucs onto.


but do they look as homely as a gabled roof Jeff?

Seriously though- they are practical and simple. Easy to make and last for years.


I have my flow hive with its gable roof in amongst a heap of flat roof brood boxes. I’m thankful for those flat roofs because I can’t rest anything on top of the gable roof.

Do they look any better? I don’t know. Just the mere presence of a bee hive in a productive backyard is always impressive, I think. Flat OR gable roof.


I don’t reckon this bloke in Canada would have much time for our migratory lids. He clearly loves his sort for a variety of reasons. He uses a type of bubble wrap as a hive mat by the way.


I can’t answer that Skegs. I have always used 3mm plywood, it was taught to me by my mentor back in the 1970’s. So far I haven’t had an issue with comb building above the ply but I also check my hives weekly and make sure they always have something to do and room in the hive. I think that is behind the fact that my bees are always placid till I get down to brood check and suffering a bout of the shakes !!!