Impossible to do that. But you can maximize it, and @Kirsten_Redlich’s advice will help with that. Nectar flow is partly determined by flowers, but also depends on rainfall. If it is dry weather, plants still flower, but they cut nectar production way back. This stuff is complicated and fascinating.
I don’t know if that’s possible in Canberra, because it get’s quite cold. However through Spring/Summer/Autumn it should be possible to have/contribute to an extended period of available nectar & pollen. So yes, it’s about trying to minimise periods without a flow, & contributing to the qualities of the flow. If you speak to some local Beekeepers they will be able to tell you when there are times of year that you experience a dearth of nectar/pollen. I live in the Dandenongs in Melbourne & have been told that a week or two either side of Melbourne Cup weekend we usually experience a dearth, during which time a lot of beekeepers feed their bees. I’ve tried to plant for this period of time so that I won’t have to feed. Plants have differing qualities & quantities of nectar & pollen also.
Water won’t be a problem. Gotta keep the bees happy.
This si a link to RIRDC "Planting for a Bee friendly Garden’, it has a pollen & nectar value guide for each plant. They are not all natives, it’s for fruit trees/ornamentals too.
PDF is free to download
Wow that looks great. Looking forward to reading that in detail.
I’m not sure if this is entirely true. In Ohio, when we have a drought, flowers still produce nectar, and it’s even more concentrated, so you get even more honey faster. It’s easier for bees to convert thicker nectar to honey.
It is definitely true in southern California, so there!
It depends on the species. Often if their endemic they’re adapted to conditions where rainfall is scarce & so produce nectar. It’s usually exotic species & hybrid cultivars that are less likely to continue nectar availability.
John Rivière-Anderson, Newholm (Huntsville), Ontario, Canada, 45 degrees N. Kept bees in the Bahamas 40 years ago, so Flow Hives in a northern clime are quite new to me. Two powerful NUCS this spring, one of which swarmed and produced queen cells continuously. Both colonies were reluctant to adopt the Flow frames, and slow to propolis their spaces. I sprayed the frames from the top with sugar syrup and more activity late in the summer and fall is visible. I’d like to share my (unique?) elevated hive installation on rails photos from within my BlackBerry albums, but don’t know how to do it to this site, as a share option nor a copy one is provided on the phone menus. Cheers!
Hi My name is Patsy
I am farmer and a Bee keeper in Ireland with 2 hives now.
I am thinking of buying a Flow Hive and wondering if anyone in Ireland has used one yet and what success have they had.
Hello! I’m very new to the bee keeping scene here in GA (Georgia), US. I got inspired recently during the local fair that had a bee exhibit(it’s always there but only open to the public on occasions like that).
My family has a nice football field size area that we’ve been planting with sunflowers the past couple years. It has great sun and our pond is nearby, seems like a perfect spot. My only fear is local farmers using pesticides, but they don’t normally go to crazy with it so we’ll see how it goes when I get things started in the spring!
I was on the fence about flow, but it’s really gotten me excited about beekeeping and making use of what seems like a golden beekeeping location.
Welcome Chris! There is a very active new Flow hive beekeeper in your state, isn’t there @Bobby_Thanepohn? I am sure that he can give you lots of good advice on where to get equipment and bees.
The Flow hive is just a different way of harvesting honey. Everything else is done the same way as traditional beekeeping, including inspections, feeding, re-queening and monitoring of disease. The benefit of Flow is that the sticky mess stays outside, the honey is probably better quality, and there is less waste/cleaning up. All good things, but of course there are cautions too, and if you spend time reading this forum, you will learn what they are. Like; not harvesting too much at once, or you may flood your hive; checking for capped frames or you will lose honey and it may not be ripe; harvesting frames in sections to avoid back pressure flooding, etc. All of these things are just part of the learning process. Nothing major, but glad you found us to help you with your journey! Welcome, once again.
I will say I’m impressed with the amount of info the flow team has put out on bee keeping in general. Also Flow needs to give a big thanks to @Frederick_J_Dunn who has probably the most in depth review and really won me over.
Metter/Statesboro area, so big farm area(hence the concern on pesticides). Something maybe you can answer, have you had problems with overheating where you’re at?
HI Chris! What a fabulous thing to say! I’m so glad my videos were helpful to you. Wishing you all the best, Fred
I use screened bottom boards on all my hives except one. I didn’t have any overheating problem on any of the hives regardless.
I don’t live down in that part of GA anymore but I grew up in Jefferson County (Wadley) so I am quite familiar with your area.
Went to college in Swainsboro, dated a girl from Twin City, worked at Coleman Lake etc.
You’ll need to just get to know the farmers that have fields that are within 3 miles of you and see if they’ll let you know in advance before spraying. Don’t know if the Vidalia onions get sprayed, we couldn’t grow them in Jefferson County.
Thanks for the advice! Luckily most of the farms around me are owned by some kind of relative of mine so it shouldn’t be too difficult haha.
Hi there from the Ottawa Valley in Ontario, Canada. I’ll be busy this winter preparing for 2 hives next spring.