Hi I was looking at potentially getting a Bee Hive Stand for my Flow Hive, however I am a bit confused with the different sizes. The flow frame hive I bought allows for 6 Flow Frames. But I believe the Box is a 8 Frame box. But then I read somewhere that the box actually fits 8 standard frames but the box is a 10 frame.
So now I am completely confused.
If I was to purchase a Stand should I be buying the 10 Frame or the 8 Frame? The Links are below.
Something to clear up right from the blocks - and it really should be one of this forumâs ârulesâ - buddy, donât apologise for asking questions that will make you a better informed beekeeperâŚever. Weâre all in this mess together!
Based upon your supplied information your initial opinion is correct - your hive boxes are 8 frame boxes.
As you travel around this forum you will come across several conversations and varied opinions surrounding frame spacing within any given box and the merits/drawbacks of âshaving downâ the sides of regular frames in order to allow an 8 frame box to accomodate 9 frames (for example). All that can wait.
However - The Full Flow or Complete Hive Set-Up uses Hive boxes that are designed for 8 ânormal sizedâ frames and 6 Flow frames (as their physical size is larger).
If youâre handy with the tools - consider making your own. Or start VERY simple (Cinder Blocks) and give yourself time to ease into the addiction slowlyâŚvery slowlyâŚ
Take a look at this there is another Post about this, I will try to find it and post the link here. It has a lot of info in itâŚI took measurements of mine so to help other understand.
On thing I noticed looking at the hive stands in your links would be that there is no space to put the jar for harvesting your flow frames? Not sure if these would work well.
I have a couple of ideas I would like to try for this. One would be a polycarbonate or acrylic pull out sheet which fits into the slot of the screened base. I would cut it longer than the hive base slot, and not leave it in place unless harvesting. It should be pretty strong and hygienic. I would take it home after harvesting to clean up spills and discourage robbing. If I canât easily get a piece of plastic cut to size, then I would try a thin sheet of plywood, perhaps sealed with marine varnish so that I could wash off any spills.
Marty, from what I have been able to glean from other beekeeping forums, you do NOT want to create spaces between your frames.
The bee space between the frames is set by the width of the frame tabs.
Simply push your 8 frames together into the center of the box. This will keep the girls from building burr comb between them.
You should not see much burr comb on the entrance side, as it seems bees like a bit of space back from the entrance to discourage robbing behavior.
Empty space at the back, I cannot speak about, I have been unable to find much discussion on this and Langstroths are new beasties for us, we are converting from Top Bar Hives.
The results look great, good to hear that sanding helped with fit.
Now to finish the wood, and wait for the girls to move in.
Congratulations!
~M
watch this video, The info toward the middle to the end was helpful to me. Goes against a lot of what I thought I read above but not sure. its been said a pitcher says a 1000 words, a video must do more. but again I know this is just one opinion.
Also not sure if it is of interest to anyone, but instead of going and buying the rather expensive bee stand I actually found a Stainless Steel Base from Ikea of all places! Itâs quite sturdy, has adjustable legs to stabilise and will do the same job.
I ended up going to Ikea on the weekend and getting the leg stands. I got the 49cm x 32cm x 15cm one for $20 which I thought would fit the dimensions of the hive better. I didnât realise they have one side offset, but, it doesnât really make much difference in the end.
For a bit of extra height, I added some âbeamsâ at each leg end, and for some stability to how the base board sits on the frame, I added some edge guides.
