I received my box last Friday as well. No Flow frames yet, but everything else is assembled. Several sets of predrilled holes needed to be changed, but otherwise, the assembly went well.
I saw someone said they used a Tung oil finish. Is that what’s recommended? It wasn’t included on the instructions. I have the Western Red Cedar setup.
I diluted the first coat 1:1 with food grade Citrus Solvent (D-Limonene also from amazon.com), but you don’t really need to do that. I have tried it with dilution and neat - both work, but if you dilute the first coat, it goes on a little more easily and penetrates more thoroughly, as the oil is quite thick. I used 2 coats - Bee Thinking recommend 2 coats on the roof, but I did 2 coats on the whole hive.
I’m waiting for my tung oil to come in. But I got the hive put together
I also found that 9 frames fit very comfortably, so I will definitely need to be doing a little reading on the best spacing, I know it has come up here a couple of times.
@adagna They fit comfortably Adam but only because there is nothing in there. Once the bees are there it will be too tight and you will “Roll the Bees” - safer to have 8 and push them together from the ends
Exactly. Put the frames up against each other in the middle of the box, and just leave a 1/2 frame width gap next to the wall on each side. Some people disagree with this, but I really think it is the safest and easiest method for new beekeepers. It also maintains the correct bee space and cell depth in the brood box for larval growth in the center frames. The frame face up against the wall is usually used for honey, and perhaps a little pollen, so it is perfectly fine if the bees draw that comb a little deeper. Also, if you get brace/burr/bridging comb up against the wall, you are less likely to damage a lot of brood when you remove the frame - so it is the safest place to have a bigger gap.
I was just curious. I did email info@honeyflow.com and all they said was a tracking number had been assigned to my order. that was close to 2 weeks ago. I order directly from the honeyflow site in August. I am on the East Coast in New Jersey.
I think I’ll add a third beam I don’t think it needs it necessarilybut I’d feel better about it. I am going to make some roosting areas for the chickens the same way
I think you are a mind-reader, Adam! I thought about doing cinder (concrete) blocks with posts through them, but when I thought about the geometry - the rails would only be about 12 or 13" apart (each block is 16 x 8 x 8"), so in earthquake country, I don’t want any tilt ability around the axis of the posts. I am considering increasing my Community Garden hive base to 6 blocks per hive - it is currently only 4. Will post some pictures when I have tidied up other people’s mess in the corner we have been allocated.